262 MANUAL OF GARDENING 
they may be sown in early spring indoors, in the window, the 
hotbed, the coldframe, or the greenhouse, preferably in boxes 
or pans, as for growing annuals. Some gardeners sow seed 
right in the coldframe. I have tried both ways, and find the 
boxes best, as the different varieties of seeds do not come up at 
the same time, and you can remove them from the close frame 
to more airy quarters as soon as the seed comes up, whereas, if 
sown in a frame, you would have to give them all the same 
treatment. When the seedlings are large enough, I trans- 
plant them into other boxes, and put them into a shady part 
of the garden, but not under the shade of trees, as there they 
will ‘draw’ toomuch. About the fifteenth of September plant 
them in the garden where they are to bloom, or if the garden 
is full of summer-flowering plants, put them in beds in the 
vegetable garden, to be planted out in the early spring, and 
give them a light covering of straw or manure to keep sudden 
changes of the weather away from them.” 
Hardy perennial herbs may be planted in September and Oc- 
tober with excellent results; also in spring. See that they are 
protected with mulch in winter. 
Perennial herbs suitable for lawn and “planting’’ effects. 
Some of the striking plants that are valuable for lawn plant- 
ing in the North, chosen chiefly on account of their size, foliage, 
and habit, are mentioned in the following brief list. They may 
or may not be suitable for flower-gardens. It is impossible to 
give to this list any degree of completeness; but the names 
here printed will be suggestive of the kinds of things that may 
be used. The asterisk (*) denotes native plants. 
Yucca, Yucca filamentosa.* 
Funkia, Funkia, of several species. 
Peltate saxifrage, Saxifraga peltata.* 
Rose mallow, Hibiscus Moscheutos.* 
