THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS — SHRUBS 291 
be tilled between the shrubs, either by horse tools or by hoes and 
rakes. If the place looks bare, seeds of quick-growing flowers 
may be scattered about the edges of the mass, or herbaceous 
perennials may be used. 
The larger shrubs, as lilacs and syringas, may be set about 
4 feet apart; but the smaller ones should be set about 2 feet 
apart if it is desired to secure an immediate effect. If after a 
few years the mass becomes too crowded, some of the specimens 
may be removed (p. 76). 
Throw the shrubs into an irregular plantation, not in rows, 
and make the inner edge of the mass more or less undulating 
and broken. 
It is a good practice to mulch the plantation each fall with 
light manure, leafmold, or other material. Even though the 
shrubs are perfectly hardy, this mulch greatly improves the 
land and promotes growth. After the shrub borders have 
become two or three years old, the drifting leaves of fall will be 
caught therein and will be held as a mulch (p. 82). 
When the shrubs are first planted, they are headed back one 
half or more (Fig. 45); but after they are established they are 
not to be sheared, but allowed to take their own way, and after 
a few years the outermost ones will droop and meet the green- 
sward (pp. 25, 26). 
Many rapid-growing trees may be utilized as shrubs by cut- 
ting them off near the ground every year, or every other year, 
and allowing young shoots to grow. Basswood, black ash, 
some of the maples, tulip tree, mulberry, ailanthus, paulownia, 
magnolias, Acer campestre, and others may be treated in this 
way (Fig. 50). 
Nearly all shrubs bloom in spring or early summer. If 
kinds blooming late in summer or in fall are desired, they may 
be looked for in baccharis, caryopteris, cephalanthus, clethra, 
hamamelis, hibiscus, hydrangea, hypericum, lespedeza, rhus 
(R. Cotinus), Sambucus Canadensis in midsummer, tamarisk. 
