392 MANUAL OF GARDENING 
Rosa rugosa. This has not only attractive flowers through the greater 
part of the season, but it also has very interesting foliage and a striking 
habit. The great profusion of bristles and spines gives it an individual 
and strong character. Even without the flowers, it is valuable to add 
character and cast to a foliage mass. The foliage is not attacked by 
insects or fungi, but remains green and glossy throughout the year. 
The fruit is also very large and showy, and persists on bushes well 
through the winter. Some of the wild roses are also very excellent 
for mixing into foliage masses, but, as a rule, their foliage character- 
istics are rather weak, and they are liable to be attacked by thrips. 
There are so many classes of roses that the intending planter is 
likely to be confused unless he knows what they are. Different classes 
require different treatment. Some of them, as the teas and hybrid 
perpetuals (the latter also known as remontants), bloom from new 
canes; while the rugosa, the Austrian, Harrison’s yellow, sweet briers, 
and some others are bushes and do not renew themselves each year 
from the crown or bases of the canes. 
The outdoor roses may be divided into two great groups so far as 
their blooming habit is involved: (1) The continuous or intermittent 
bloomers, as the hybrid perpetuals (blooming chiefly in June), bour- 
bons, tea, rugosa, the teas and hybrid teas being the most continuous 
in bloom; (2) those that bloom once only, in summer, as Austrian, 
Ayrshire, sweet briers, prairie, Cherokee, Banksian, provence, most 
moss roses, damask, multiflora, polyantha, and memorial (Wichura- 
tana). “Perpetual” or recurrent-blooming races have been developed 
in the Ayrshire, moss, polyantha, and others. 
While roses delight in a sunny exposure, nevertheless our dry at- 
mosphere and hot summers are sometimes trying on the flowers, as are 
severe wintry winds on the plants. While, therefore, it is never ad- 
visable to plant roses near large trees, or where they will be over- 
shadowed by buildings or surrounding shrubbery, some shade during 
the heat of the day will be a benefit. The best position is an eastern 
or northern slope, and where fences or other objects will break the 
force of strong winds, in those sections where such prevail. 
Roses should be carefully taken up every four or five years, tops and 
roots cut in, and then reset, either in a new place or in the old, after 
enriching the soil with a fresh supply of manure, and deeply spading 
