ROSE 395 
each cane; from these buds the flowering canes of the year are to 
come. If it is desired to secure fewer blooms, but of the best size 
and quality, fewer canes may be left and only two or three new shoots 
be allowed to spring from each one the next spring. 
The rule in trimming all cane-bearing roses is, cut back weak grow- 
ing kinds severely; strong growers moderately. 
Climbing and pillar roses need only the weak branches and the tips 
shortened in. Other hardy kinds will usually need cutting back about 
one-fourth or one-third, according to the vigor of the branches, either 
in the spring or fall. 
The everblooming or hybrid tea roses will need to have all dead 
wood removed at the time of uncovering them in spring. Some prun- 
ing during the summer is also useful in encouraging growth and flow- 
ers. The stronger branches that have flowered may be cut back one- 
half or more. 
The sweet briers, Austrian and rugosas may be kept in bush form; 
but the trunks may be cut out at the ground every two or three years, 
new shoots having been allowed to come up in the meantime. All 
rampant growths should be cut back or taken out. 
Insects and diseases of roses (see pp. 205, 213). 
Most of the summer insects that trouble the rose are best treated 
by a forceful spray of clear water. This should be done early in the 
day and again at evening. Those having city water or good spray 
pumps will find this an easy method of keeping rose pests in check. 
Those without these facilities may use whale-oil soap, fir-tree oil, good 
soap suds, the tobacco preparations, or Persian insect powder. 
The rose-bug or chafer should be hand-picked or knocked off early 
in the morning into a pan of coal oil. The leaf-roller must be crushed. 
The mildews are controlled by the various sulfur sprays. 
Winter protection of roses. 
All garden roses should be well mulched with leaves or coarse manure 
in the fall. Mounding earth about the root also affords excellent protec- 
tion. Bending over the tops and covering with grass or evergreen boughs 
is also to be recommended for such kinds as are suspected to be injured 
by winter; the boughs are preferable because they do not attract mice. 
