412 MANUAL OF GARDENING 
avoid crotches, and if any of the branches cross, so that they are 
likely to rub, one or the other should be cut out. This cutting- 
back and trimming-out should be continued for two or three 
years, and in the case of dwarf pear trees regular heading-back 
each year should be continued. Although an occasional head- 
ing-back will be of advantage to the trees, apple, plum, and 
cherry trees that have been properly pruned while young will 
not require so much attention after they come into bearing. 
Heavy pruning of the top tends to the production of wood; 
therefore the severe pruning of orchard trees, following three 
or four years of neglect, sets the trees into heavy wood-bearing, 
and makes them more vigorous. Such treatment generally 
tends away from fruit-bearing. This heavy pruning is usually 
necessary in neglected orchards, however, to bring trees back 
into shape and to revitalize them; but the best pruning-treat- 
ment of an orchard is to prune it a little every year. It should 
be so pruned that the tops of the trees will be open, that no two 
limbs will interfere with each other, and so that the fruit itself 
will not be so abundant as to overload the tree. 
In general, it is best to prune orchard trees late in winter or 
early in spring. It is sometimes better, however, to leave peaches 
and other tender fruits until after the buds have swollen, or 
even after the flowers have fallen, in order that one may deter- 
mine how much they have been injured by the winter. Grape 
vines should be pruned in winter or not later (in New York) 
than the first of March. If pruned later than this, they may 
bleed. The above remarks will apply to other trees as well as 
to fruits. 
Thinning the fruit. 
If the best size and quality of fruit are desired, care must be 
taken to see that the plant does not overbear. 
Thinning of fruit has four general uses: to cause the remaining 
fruit to grow larger; to increase the chances of annual crops; 
