CABBAGE 469 
will well repay attention to watering and thinning. The rows should 
be 3 or 4 inches apart. When the plants are large enough to trans- 
plant, they may be planted where early vegetables have been grown. 
Set the plants from 18 to 24 inches apart in the row, the rows being 
3 feet apart for the medium-growing kinds. One ounce of seed will 
furnish about 2000 plants. 
All cabbages require deep and rich soil, and one that holds moisture 
well. Regular cultivation should be given so that moisture may be 
saved and the growth be continuous. 
For early planting, the number of varieties is limited to three or 
four. For an intermediate crop the list is more extended, and the late 
varieties are very numerous. The early list is headed by the Jersey 
Wakefield, a variety that heads very quickly, and, although not one 
of the solid kinds, is generally grown. The Early York and Winnig- 
stadt are good varieties to follow it. The latter especially is solid and 
of very good quality. For the midseason, the Succession and All Season 
are of the best, and for the winter supply the Drumhead, Danish Ball, 
and Flat Dutch types are leaders. One of the best of the cabbages 
for table use is seldom seen in the garden — the Savoy cabbage. It is 
a type with netted leaves, making a large, low-growing head, the center 
of which is very solid and of excellent flavor, especially late in the fall, 
when the heads have had a slight touch of frost. Savoy should be 
grown in every private garden. 
The best remedy for the cabbage worm is to kill the first brood on 
the very young plants with Paris green. After the plants begin to 
head, pyrethrum, kerosene emulsion, or salt water may be used. On 
a small area, hand-picking may be recommended (p. 200). 
The maggot is the most serious cabbage pest. After studying the 
seventy odd remedies proposed, Slingerland concludes that six are effi- 
cient and practicable: growing the young plants in closely covered 
frames; tarred paper cards placed snugly about the base of the plants 
to keep the fly away; rubbing the eggs from the base of the plant; 
hand-picking of the maggots; treating the plants with emulsion of 
carbolic acid; treating them with carbon bisulfide. The insecticidal 
materials are injected or poured into the soil about the base of the 
plant (pp. 187, 201). 
The club-root, which causes the roots to become greatly thickened 
