140 AUSTRALIAN BEE LORE AND BEE CULTURE- 



in the diagram, or in crescent form, shown in the diagram by a 

 dotted line. The first shape named being by far the easier method, 

 especially for amateur carpenters. In marking out the entrance 

 take either 16-inch end and draw a line 1^ inch from each corner 

 to a point 5 inches from the front of the bottom board. Run a 

 saw-cut from the corner points to the centre one 3-8 inch deep. 

 This will save a deal of after labour in chiselling away the super- 

 fluous wood. The legs, marked e f, should be about 16 inches long, 

 3 inches wide, and of sufficient substance to securely hold the 



Bottom Board No. 1 for an 8-framed hive, A B or C D 2 feet, or 2£ in. longer than the full 

 width of the hive. A B or B D 14£ in., or the full width of the hive. E F the legs, 

 16 in. , or the length of the width of the board, and 3 in. wide. ABO, the points of 

 the V entrance. 



nails when fixed to the bottom board. These legs are for a two- 

 fold purpose; they keep the hive well up off the ground, and also 

 prevent the wood from warping. The underside being invariably 

 damp, and the upper surface dry, the bottoms have a great ten- 

 dency to twist. Four bricks will answer the same purpose for 

 keeping the hives free from the ground, and have the advantage 

 of preventing the ravages of the white ant. Nevertheless, it is 

 always well to plant strong cleats on the underside of the bottom 

 board. It is a preventive for the warping, and, of course, is abso- 

 lutely necessary if the bottom is made from more than one piece 

 of wood. The twisting may also be prevented by using grooved 

 cleats. The V-shaped entrance has the advantage of providing 

 for greater or lesser ingress or egress, as may be required according 

 to climatic changes, by sliding the hive forth or back as may be 

 found necessary. 



