cried, and had just calmed down when the father 

 came round the rocks upon us. His face vividly 

 and swiftly expressed three or four kinds of 

 anger before he grasped the situation. Fearing 

 that he might jump on me in turn, or that he 

 might "get them" too, I watched him without 

 a word. Finally he took in the entire situation, 

 and said with a smile, "Well, I don't know 

 whether it's my move or not!" 



Twice, while guiding, I broke my lifelong rule 

 never to take a tip. One tip had with it a sur- 

 prise to redeem the taking. It came from the 

 gentleman who had organized the party. On 

 the way up he begged leave to set the pace and 

 to lead the party to the top. He appeared sensi- 

 ble, but I made a blunder by consenting to the 

 arrangement, for his pace was too rapid, and 

 at Keyhole he was attacked by nausea. He 

 pluckily insisted that we go on to the summit 

 and leave him behind. It was five hours before 

 we returned to him. For two hours he had lain 

 helpless in a cold rain and was badly chilled. 

 He was so limp and loose-jointed that it was 

 difficult to carry him across the moraine called 



14 



