i6 SIBERIA IN EUROPE. chap. in. 



crasmum pa lielemo and hielwn pa crassnemo* with billiard 

 balls large enough for Hercules to have played with. Arch- 

 angel must have been christened in winter, indeed the odds 

 are at least seven to five that such was the case. Most of 

 the houses are painted white, the streets were white, the 

 Dvina was white, and as far as the eye could reach the whole 

 country was white. The principal street, the Troiski Prospect, 

 is a long straight road flanked with low houses, separated by 

 gardens. All the houses are constructed of wood, except in 

 the centre of the town, where many of them are plastered 

 bricks. The population is said to be from fifteen to seventeen 

 thousand in winter, increasing in summer to about half as 

 many more. Archangel seems to be declining in importance 

 as a commercial centre, doubtless in consequence of its isola- 

 tion from the railway system of Eussia. The number of 

 large firms does not increase, and there are now only three 

 export houses of importance. The chances of commercial 

 success are consequently small, and most of the young men 

 who can afford it leave the city. The cost of living is small. 

 House rent is very cheap, and provisions equally so. For 

 example, best joints of beef can be bought in winter for 3d. 

 per lb., in summer at 3^d. White bread costs ^d. per lb., 

 but brown bread can be had for |d Butter is 7^d. per lb. 

 Milk (unskimmed) Id. per quart, and cream 3^d. per pint. 

 Game is ridiculously cheap ; capercailzie, T^d each in autumn, 

 Is. 7d. each in winter ; hazel grouse 4Jd per brace in autumn, 

 ll^d. in winter; hares 3d. each, and salmon 9d. to Is. 3d. 



* Red upon white, and white upon red. 



