THE LABRADOR JOURNAL 403 



were also found, and a single pair of those remarkable 

 birds, which could not be approached. Two Ptarmigans 

 were killed; these birds have no whirring of the wings, 

 even when surprised ; they flew at the gunners in defence 

 of the young, and one was killed with a gun-rod. The 

 instant they perceive they are observed, when at a dis- 

 tance, they squat or lie flat on the moss, when it is almost 

 impossible to see them unless right under your feet. From 

 the top of a high rock I had fine view of the most exten- 

 sive and the dreariest wilderness I have ever beheld. It 

 chilled the heart to gaze on these barren lands of Labra- 

 dor. Indeed I now dread every change of harbor, so horri- 

 bly rugged and dangerous is the whole coast and country, 

 especially to the inexperienced man either of sea or land. 

 The mosquitoes, many species of horse-fly, small bees, 

 and black gnats filled the air ; the frogs croaked ; and yet 

 the thermometer was not high, not above 55°. This is 

 one of the wonders of this extraordinary country. We 

 have returned to our vessel, wet, shivering with cold, tired, 

 and very hungry. During our absence the cook caught 

 some fine lobsters ; but fourteen men, each with a gun, six 

 of which were double-barrelled, searched all day for game, 

 and have not averaged two birds apiece, nineteen being all 

 that were shot to-day. We all conclude that no one man 

 could provide food for himself without extreme difficulty. 

 Some animal was seen at a great distance, so far indeed 

 that we could not tell whether it was a Wolf or a Caribou. 

 July 19. So cold, rainy, and foggy has this day been 

 that no one went out shooting, and only a ramble on shore 

 was taken by way of escaping the motion of the vessel, 

 which pitched very disagreeably, the wind blowing almost 

 directly in our harbor; and I would not recommend this 

 anchorage to a painter naturalist, as Charles Bonaparte 

 calls me. I have drawn two Parus kudsonicus, and this 

 evening went on shore with the captain for exercise, and 

 enough have I had. We climbed the rocks and followed 



