Clap. 30.] riSHES. 401 



districts of Campania. During five years, the greatest care 

 was taken that those which were caught should he returned to 

 the sea ; but since then they have been always found in great 

 abundance off the shores of Italy, where formerly there were 

 none to be taken. Thus has gluttony introduced these fish, to 

 be a dainty within its reach, and added a new inhabitant to 

 the seas ; so that we ought to feel no surprise that foreign 

 birds breed at Kome. 



The fish that is next in estimation for the table is the mus- 

 tela," but that is valued only for its liver. A singular thing 

 to tell of — ^the lake of Brigantia," in Rhsetia, lying in the 

 midst of the Alps, produces them to rival even those of the 

 sea." 



CHAP. 30. THE VAEIOTIS KTNBS OF MTJIiBTS, AND THE SAKeiTS 



THAT ATTENDS THEM. 



Of the remaining fish that are held in any degree of esteem, 

 the mullet ^^ is the most highly valued, as well as the most 

 abundant of all ; it is of only a moderate size, rarely exceeds 

 two pounds in weight, and will never grow beyond that weight 

 in preserves or fish-ponds. These fish are oidy to be found in 

 the Northern Ocean," exceeding two pounds in weight, and 

 even there in none but the more westerly parts. As for the 

 other kinds, the various species are numerous ; some" live 

 upon sea- weed, while others feed on the oystgi', slime, and the 

 flesh of other fish. The more distinctive mark is a forked 



" Or weasel-fisli. Cuvier is of opinion that.Hardouin is right in his 

 conjecture, that this is the Lote, or Gadus lota of Linnaeus, which is still 

 called motelle in some of the provinces of France. Its liver, he says, is one 

 of the greatest delicacies that can be eaten. 



'' The present Boden See, or Lake of Constance. 



" Instead of " marinis," SiUig adopts the reading " mnraenis," making 

 them to rival the mursena even. The other, however, seems to be the pre- 

 ferable reading. 



'5 Cuvier says that this is the rpiyXa of the Greeks, the triglia of mo- 

 dem Italy, the rouget of Provence, and the MuUus barbatus of Linnseus. 



'6 The coasts of La Manche, Cuvier says, and the Gulf of Gascony pro- 

 duce a kind of mullet of larger size than usukl, varied with stripes of a 

 yellow colour. This, the Mullus surmuletus of Linnseusj is also to be found 

 in the Mediterranean, but much more rarely thaji the smaller kind, which 

 is red all over. 



" Aristotle, Hist. Anim. B.viii. c. 5; iGlian, Hist. Anim. B. ii. c. 41 ; 

 and Oppian, Halieut. B. iii. 1. 43S. 



VOL. n. D D ' 



