96 



CULINARY OE KITCHEN GARDEN. 



ever remain distinct, inasmuch as they derive 

 their origin from two very distinct types, namely, 

 the Portugal cabbage, and the tall curled kale. 

 The oauHflower originated also in the south of 

 Europe — some say the island of Cyprus — while 

 the other originated in the north of Europe, but 

 whether in Germany or Britain we have no cer- 

 tain means of knowing. Others think the broccoli 

 of ItaUau origin ; and hence the older authors, 

 in describing the then two only known varieties, 

 call them Brassica Italica alba, the white broc- 

 coli; and Brassica Italica pwpurea, the purple 

 broccoli 



To obtain seed: — "Such plants of each variety 

 must be selected in March or April as most per- 

 fectly agree with their pecuUar characteristics, 

 and are not particularly forward in advancing 

 for seed. As the stems run up, some growers 

 recommend the leaves to be taken away ; but 

 this must be injurious. Mr Wood of Queens- 

 ferry is particularly careful that no leaves appear 

 on the surface of the head. He always lifts his 

 plants, and plants them in another bed, water- 

 ing them abundantly, as this, he finds, prevents 

 their degenerating or producing proud seed ; 

 and when the head begins to open, he outs out 

 its centre, and leaves only four or five of the 

 outside shoots for bearing. The sulphur-coloured 

 he always finds the most difficult to obtain seed 

 from. As the branches spread, four or six stakes 

 should be placed at equal distances round each 

 plant, and hooped round with string to support 

 them, and prevent their breaking. When the 

 pods begin to form, water should be given re- 

 peatedly, and occasionally some thrown over the 

 whole plant, which tends to prevent mildew. 

 Before the pods begin to change colour, those 

 from the extremity of every shoot must be taken 

 away, as these yield seed which produce plants 

 very apt to run to seed without heading, and 

 by an early removal the others are benefited. 

 The branches ought to be gathered as soon as 

 the pods upon them ripen. Different kinds 

 must never be planted near each other, or they 

 will reciprocally be crossed. The seed ripens in 

 August or September; and it is often recom- 

 mended to preserve it in the pod until wanted, 

 but the general practice is to beat it out as soon 

 as it is perfectly dry." — Cottage Gardeners'' Dic- 

 tionary. 



§ 6. — THE SAVOY. 



Natv/ral History. — The savoy {Brassica ale- 

 racea buUata major, De C.) has been known in 

 Britain as a cultivated plant since the time of 

 Gerard, who specially notices them, and ranks 

 them amongst hearting or heading cabbages. 

 It is sufficiently distinct from all these in the 

 wrinkled leaves, which form its chief charac 

 teristic. The Brussels sprout is considered a 

 sub-variety of this, but it is much more removed 

 from it, in appearance, than the savoy is from the 

 cabbage. It forms an excellent, hardy, and pro- 

 ductive winter esculent, and is divided into two 

 pretty distinct classes, the green coloured and 

 the yellow. 



Its use is the same as the cabbage, being used, 

 when fully headed, during winter, and as sprouts 



or coUards, in some families, during most of the 

 year. 



Propagation. — It is propagated by seed 

 sown annually, or by cuttings of the 

 young sprouts in spring, after the head 

 has been cut off. 



Sowing and planting. — In many parts 

 of Scotland these are sown in autumn, at 

 the same time as cabbages, &o. are, for 

 next summer's consumption. This, how- 

 ever, can only hold good in very cold and 

 late localities. In others, the crop would 

 be too forward, for they are not required 

 in a full-hearted state before November. 

 There are circumstances, however, when 

 this is different; namely, where green 

 savoys are required during most of the 

 year, in the form of collards, like young 

 cabbages. Sowing, therefore, to meet 

 these demands, must be made frequently. 

 (Vide Early cabbage.) For a general au- 

 tumn and winter crop, a sowing towards 

 the end of February, and another towards 

 the beginning of April, will be sufiScient, 

 so that the plants may be set in their per- 

 manent position in May, June, or July. 

 Half an oz. of seed will be sufficient for a 

 seed-bed of 36 square feet. 



The distances, &c. of the plants are 

 in all respects the same as for cabbage, 

 allowing those that are to be drawn as 

 collards the same distance as cabbage, 

 collards, and those which are to remain 

 to form perfect heads, from 24 to 26 

 inches between row and row, and 20 

 inches between plant and plant. 



Subsequent culture. — An open and ex- 

 posed situation is the best, beginning- 

 planting out as the young plants are 

 ready in the nursery-beds ; for it is im- 

 portant that they be removed from the 

 seed-bed as soon as their leaves are about 

 2 inches in breadth. Choose the strongest 

 plants for first planting, following up with 

 the weaker in the course of a week or two, 

 or as ground falls vacant from other 

 crops. May and June is a good time for 

 transplanting, when the crop is wanted 

 during August and September, for south- 

 ern practice ; and the same time, or 

 even towards the middle of July, for 

 northern climates. The first, unless for 

 market purposes, is perhaps too soon for 

 English family use, as, during August 

 and September, more desirable vegetables 

 are in use. July and August are there- 

 fore a preferable transplanting season for 



