THE GRAPE VINE. 



621 



is essential. Some recommend artificially im- 

 pregnating the blossom to secure a regular set 

 of berries; and in the case of weakly plants and 

 badly constructed houses this may be neces- 

 sary — not so, howeyer, if the plants are vigorous, 

 and the general treatment judicious. Never 

 apply water unless in a tepid state to the roots, 

 and the colder the soil the warmer the water 

 should be; for cold water, or even an excess of 

 it at any temperature, is exceedingly injurious 

 to this class of grapes. As we have already 

 observed, some of our best cultivators do not 

 syringe their Muscats after the buds have ad- 

 vanced to the length of 2 inches : we do not in 

 in all cases do so ; nevertheless, it may be expe- 

 dient in dark atmospheres — that is to say, in 

 situations where the sun shines feebly upon 

 them. On the other hand, where plenty of light 

 is admitted, we would syringe with tepid water 

 until the berries had attained nearly their 

 full size. The temperature in which we have 

 found Muscats prosper best is about 65° by 

 night, and from 7S° to 85° by day, from the 

 time they are in bloom until they are ripe. Of 

 the importance of this difference between day 

 and night heat, see page 629. Root-watering and 

 ventilation as for other grapes already noticed. 

 When the fruit has fully ripened, a diminished 

 temperature is expedient, even lowering it, but 

 gradually, to 45° or 55° as the minimum : this 

 lower temperature will cause the grapes to 

 keep longer, and this without shrivelling. Mus- 

 cats ripened by the middle of November — if the 

 ends of their stalks, or a piece of a few inches 

 in length of the branch on which they have been 

 produced, if it can be taken with them, be sealed 

 at the ends, and the bunches suspended in a 

 dry cool room, so as not to touch each other — 

 may be kept in good perfection till March ; in- 

 deed, much better than if left hanging on the 

 trees. The vines are also greatly relieved by 

 the fruit being removed, and in a fit state for 

 pruning, &c. — Vide vol. i., figs. 421, 423. 



Forcing vines in pots. — When the vine began 

 to be first gi'own in pots and forced for early 

 crops, the same plants were continued for years. 

 Mr Stafford, one of the first cultivators upon 

 this principle, says, " In respect to the treat- 

 ment of the plants, I never throw them out on 

 account of old age; I always renovate them, 

 and have plants ten or twelve years of age as 

 perfectly young, to all appearance, as though 

 they were raised last year in the pot." Mr 

 Stafford plants in pots 13 inches wide at the 

 top and 15 inches deep. The soil used is rich 

 vegetable mould, and the sorts chosen those 

 that are naturally prolific, and not the large- 

 growing kinds. " The more delicate sorts," he 

 observes, " are superior, when grown in pots, to 

 any grown on rafters; and I have often proved 

 that a pot placed in the house on the first of 

 January, and the same variety trained up the 

 rafter and subjected to the same heat, the 

 former will ripen its fruit at least a month ear- 

 lier than the latter." This is no doubt owing to 

 the temperature at the roots of those in pots 

 being much nearer to the temperature of the 

 atmosphere of the house than of those growing 

 in a common border. Here is one pretty evi- 

 VOL. II. 



dent proof of the advantage of heated borders, 

 or of having the roots of the plants placed in a 

 temperature approximating to that in which the 

 fruit and foliage grow. Opinions have differed 

 much as to the age of vines to be grown in pots 

 since Mr Stafford gave his ideas publicity, and 

 many gardeners fruit the vine the second year 

 from its being struck from an eye, and after- 

 wards throw them away altogether. Of the 

 propriety of this there may be doubts, as if the 

 vine, after ripening its fruit, be cut down to the 

 ground, and allowed the following season to re- 

 cover itself, we see no reason why they may 

 not be continued for years. — Vide Mr Spencer's 

 practice, &o. 



The following is the substance of Mr Erring- 

 ton's practice, as given in " Cottage Gardener," 

 vol. V. p. 211: "The plants are struck from 

 single eyes, and during the first season's growth 

 stimulated to the fullest extent with a view to 

 obtain strong plants. By October the leaves 

 will be all fallen, and the plants may be in- 

 stantly pruned back to about 9 inches in length, 

 when they may be plunged in any sheltered and 

 dry spot for the winter, laying the pots on one 

 side to keep out the rain, and throwing some 

 litter over them in severe weather to keep out 

 frost. In the course of January in the succeed- 

 ing year they may be again introduced to heat 

 as before, and must receive the final shift; the 

 size of the pot must be in part dictated by the 

 position they are to occupy ; a pot, however, at 

 least a foot in diameter must be used. And 

 now, again, the most perfect drainage must be 

 employed, and both it and the lumpy turfy 

 material must increase in the size of their com- 

 ponent parts in a just ratio to the increase of 

 pot-room. When the buds commence to grow, a 

 selection must be made of the eyes or shoots to 

 be reserved; and here practices differ — some 

 retain four or five shoots, others only one or 

 two. These points must be ruled principally 

 by the position they are to occupy. We may 

 merely observe that most good cultivators re- 

 serve only one cane, and this is trained care- 

 fully as in the preceding season, and is usually 

 stopped when about 6 feet in length. This 

 throws extra strength for a while into the princi- 

 pal leaves, and through them into the fruit-buds 

 at their base. The stopped shoot will shortly 

 push another leader, and this may be permitted 

 to produce another foot or so of shoot, when it 

 will be well to practise a second stopping. All 

 this while the laterals are regularly stopped, as 

 in the first year's culture. In August or Sep- 

 tember they will sink to rest, and may be 

 pruned immediately; the length left to bear 

 must be entirely determined by the size of the 

 pots. About 3 feet, or nearly so, may be left to 

 a 12-inch pot, and about 4 or 5 feet if in 15-inch 

 pots; regard must, however, be had to the space 

 overhead, as to height, &c. They must now 

 again be plunged for their period of rest; and 

 the best place is a shed or outhouse facing the 

 north, taking care to preserve the roots well. 

 If required to be forced early, they may be 

 introduced to heat soon after Christmas; and 

 now a bottom-heat of 75° will be of great ser- 

 vice, if only for a couple of months. They will 



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