688 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



attach little importance, but to charred blocks 

 we object strongly, as they are apt to become 

 too dry, as well as on account of their power of 

 absorbing heat from their black colour. The 

 finer sorts of orchids seldom attach themselves 

 to such blocks, and only the stronger-growing 

 ones do, as they would do to iron, stone, or any 

 other solid material within their reach. The 

 plants should be attached by fine copper or 

 brass wire, and a little sphagnum may be put 

 round the roots at fixing, to retain moisture until 

 the plant is fully established. Blocks should 

 be always suspended perpendicularly, and they 

 should be frequently taken down and examined, 

 particularly during summer, and if too dry, 

 dipped for a few minutes in tepid water. 



Potting orchids. — The roots are very liable 

 to attach themselves to the sides of the pots ; 

 care should therefore be taken, at turning out 

 of the old pots, that they be not injured. 

 Should they not turn out freely, it vrill be bet- 

 ter to break the pot than injure the roots; and 

 should a few fragments adhere to the roots, they 

 should be allowed to remain. The new pot be- 

 ing thoroughly drained, a little moss should be 

 placed over the drainage, to prevent the finer 

 portions of the soil being washed downwards. 

 The old compost should be entirely removed, 

 and any of the roots that are dead or diseased 

 should be cut away; over the moss place a little 

 of the compost already recommended, the turfier 

 the better; set the plant on this, yet sufficiently 

 high that its crown may be from 1 to 3 inches 

 above the level of the pot, according to its size; 

 work carefully the necessary quantity of soil 

 round the roots. No part except the roots 

 should be covered with soil; and if the plant is 

 of the tall-growing kinds, and likely to fall over, 

 it must be supported by stakes. Water slightly 

 when the potting is finished, and while the 

 operation is going on, keep a sharp look-out for 

 insects. A thorough cleaning of the house 

 should take place at the same time, for their 

 suppression; and' if the floors and shelving be 

 watered with boiling water, or caustic lime- 

 water, so much the better ; for wood-lice and 

 cockroaches, in particular, as soon as the plants 

 begin to be disturbed, will secrete themselves in 

 every available crevice. A very good mode of 

 potting is to invert a pot of rather smaller size 

 within the one in which the plant is to be set ; 

 on top of the inner pot set the plant, and if its 

 roots are sufficiently long, allow them to hang 

 down between the one pot and the other; work 

 in the compost carefully in the space between 

 the two, which, if from 2 to 3 inches apart, will 

 be sufficient space for the roots to range in. 

 The roots of most orchids are fond of clinging 

 to the surface of earthenware, and hence some 

 cultivators, instead of filling up the space be- 

 tween the two pots as above, merely throw in a 

 little loose sphagnum to shelter the roots. Those 

 intended to be set in baskets should be similarly 

 treated, covering the bottom with a thin layer of 

 moss, to prevent the finer parts of the soil falling 

 through ; a portion of peaty turfy soil, as already 

 referred to, should be laid over the moss, as 

 high as will elevate the plant, when set on it, 

 from 1 to 3 or 4 inches above the sides. The 



old compost should be removed almost entirely; 

 and if the old baskets, with the plants in them, 

 have been placed in a cistern of water for a day 

 or so previously, the disengagement of the old 

 hard clods from the roots will be more readily 

 effected. It is also an excellent way of dislodging 

 wood-lice and other insects. When the operation 

 is completed, water the new boU thoroughly, 

 support the plant if it require it, and plant 

 pieces of any of the low-growing Lycopodiums 

 on the surface, which vrill give a healthy green 

 appearance to the plants. 



Watering. — It is seldom that orchids, if we 

 except a few truly terrestrial ones, require water 

 at the roots. They, however, during their grow- 

 ing season, require an abundant supply by sy- 

 ringing over their tops; indeed, so often some- 

 times, during summer, as twice or thrice a-day. 

 The water used should be at least of the same 

 temperature, if not more, than the atmosphere 

 of the house, taking care, however, to avoid 

 throwing it on those that are in bloom. Indeed 

 it is better, where the convenience exists, to 

 place those in fiower in a separate apartment, 

 where the flowers may be kept dry and the plants 

 somewhat cool, as both have the efiect of greatly 

 prolonging the period of their beauty. During 

 winter, and also during the season of rest in the 

 plants, little water should be given, especially 

 to such as are in pots; but even to this there 

 are exceptions, such as the very beautiful Ancec- 

 tochilus, which inhabits shaded moist rocks 

 in Borneo, Java, and Ceylon, the Huntleya 

 violacea, H. melagris, &c., found in similar situa- 

 tions on the river Essequibo. Again, the genera 

 Renanthera, Angrsecum, Vanda, Sarcanthus, 

 Phaloenopsis, Aerides, &c., which have no pseudo 

 bulbs, require more water during the winter 

 than such as are provided with these magazines 

 for storing up aqueous food. They require 

 water most when growing; and here also the 

 quantity greatly depends on the sort, and also 

 upon the stage of its growth ; as for example, 

 while the young shoot is beginning to form, and 

 the young roots to appear, little water must be 

 given them, and saturation carefully avoided, 

 particularly during winter, while the shoots are 

 in a young state. It is during spring and sum- 

 mer, when the growth has somewhat advanced, 

 and the sun powerful, that the greatest supplies 

 are required, because evaporation is going on 

 most rapidly, and the plants are in a condition 

 to absorb it in greater quantities. 



Shading is important during the intensity of 

 sun-heat; for although some orchids brave the 

 fiercest sun of the tropics, the majority of them 

 are plants growing in moderate shade. (For 

 mode of shading, vide vol. i., p. 656.) It is only, 

 however, during the bright days of summer that 

 shading is required ; for orchids, like most other 

 plants, require all the light our country affords. 

 This points out the absurdity of setting orchidi- 

 ous plants in the most shaded parts of the hot- 

 house ; although, under these circumstances, 

 many of the hardier kinds will exist, the finer 

 and more delicate will not, and few even of the 

 former will produce their flowers. 



Management of newly-imported orchids. — The 

 plants, being long confined in the dark and close 



