BULB-HOUSE. 



699 



off close to its base as soon as it begins to decay, 

 but not sooner, as an immense expenditure of 

 Bap would take place by cutting the flower-stalk 

 while in full vigour of growth. All seeds should 

 also be prevented from forming. The greatest 

 encouragement should also be given to the per- 

 fect formation of the leaves. When the object 

 is to increase the stock, then an opposite course 

 should be followed ; the young offsets should be 

 encouraged, and left on until they can be re- 

 moved easily, and without injury to the parent 

 bulb. The plant should also be prevented from 

 flowering, by destroying the flower-stalk while in 

 an embryo state. From the commencement of 

 vegetation care should be taken that no undue 

 excitement be given, but a slow and gradual 

 development of the parts be encouraged, in- 

 creasing the stimulus as the growth proceeds 

 and as the days lengthen. Over-excitement, par- 

 ticularly by heat, draws up the foliage weak and 

 attenuated ; the consequence is, that, if flowers 

 are produced at aU, they will be inferior both 

 in colour and size. We have already noticed 

 that during the growing season too much light 

 and sunshine cannot be admitted to them, the 

 atmosphere should be kept humid, and a greater 

 amount of water given at the roots than is 

 necessary for other plants not absolutely 

 aquatics. 



General remarks on exotic bulb culture. — 

 Amaryllis calyptrata, a native of Brazil, requires 

 a rather high temperature during the season, 

 and is improved if placed on bottom heat. It is 

 one of the sorts which retains its leaves through- 

 out the year, and is, with most that do so, so 

 impatient of cold, that when removed to the 

 greenhouse temperature it often perishes out- 

 right. A. formosissima, a native of North 

 America, requires a light rich soil, and is 

 adapted to the greenhouse temperature. The 

 same may be said of psittacina, a native of 

 Brazil; Belladonna, a native of the West Indies, 

 and its variety pallida, from Madeira. Vittata, 

 and the hybrids between it and psittacina, 

 are hardy greenhouse plants, seldom prospering 

 in a higher temperature. Stylosa, solandrse- 

 flora, reticulata, and striatifiora, are tender 

 stove-plants; while equestris, a native of the 

 warmest parts of the West Indies, is impa- 

 tient of a high temperature, and will not long 

 exist in active excitement. We give these as ex- 

 amples only. Brunsvigia Josephinae, contraiy 

 to most other bulbs, requires to have its bulbs 

 kept under ground, with their necks left only a 

 little above the surface of the soil : a rich light 

 loam, with abundance of water during its season 

 of growth, and perfect dryness while it is at rest, 

 are the conditions necessary for insuring success 

 in blooming this splendid and now rare plant. 

 Coburghia, Ixia, Sparaxis, Tritonia, Babiana, 

 Trichonema, Mor9ea, H. .^manthus, Strumaria, 

 Cyrtanthus, Nerine, Grissorhiza, Gladiolus, 

 Phycella, Vallota, Gethyllis, Eucomis, Lapey- 

 rousia, Conanthera, Hypoxis, Albuca, Oxalis, 

 Eriospermum, Massonia, Lachenalia, Tropseo- 

 lum, &c., require greenhouse temperature only, 

 but to be kept somewhat warmer while their 

 leaves are forming. They are chiefly natives 

 of the Cape of Good Hope, China, Japan, Aus- 



tralia, Mexico, Brazil, and Peru. The follow- 

 ing, being chiefly natives of the East and West 

 Indies, Senegal, and South America, require a 

 correspondingly higher temperature — namely, 

 Crinum Pancratium, Habranthus, Tacca, Glo- 

 riosa, Griffinia, &c. It may be remarked that 

 the beautiful genus Coburghia, unlike most 

 other bulbs, prospers best in a rather strong, 

 rich, loamy soil. Of Gloriosa there are only 

 four species, one only of which (Superba) is 

 in general cultivation, although the whole 

 ought to be found in every plant-stove in the 

 kingdom. Rarely, however, is this plant well 

 managed. For the guidance of amateurs, with 

 whom the veiy name may have some attrac- 

 tion, we offer the following as a simple mode 

 of culture, adapted to all who have a stove, 

 however small ; premising, however, that the 

 roots — we mean roots proper, not the bulb 

 — should be preserved with the greatest care, 

 for if injured, the plants sustain a check from 

 which they are long, perhaps a year or two, in 

 recovering. In autumn, when the stems have 

 died down, remove the pot containing the bulb 

 to the top shelf of the stove or bulb-house, or 

 place it elevated a few inches above the flue or 

 hot-water pipes farthest from the furnace or 

 boiler, where the mould may be kept dry and 

 warm, and for greater safety an empty pot may 

 be inverted over it. If the tubers be small, 

 several may be kept in the same pot during 

 winter. About the middle of March they should 

 be taken out and potted, one or two, according 

 to their size, being set in each pot of 6 or 7 

 inches in top diameter. The soil should be 

 similar to that recommended for Amarylhs, only 

 less enriched with manure. Set the roots about 

 2 inches deep, and plunge the pots immediately 

 in a very moderate bottom-heat at first, increas- 

 ing it progressively in the course of a few days 

 to 90° or 95°. Water should be sparingly ap- 

 plied at starting, but after the plants become 

 fully excited a more liberal supply should be 

 given. When the shoots have extended 1 8 

 inches or 2 feet, shift into pots 12 inches over, 

 preserving the ball perfectly sound during the 

 operation. If intended to train the shoots up a 

 rafter under the glass, place the pot in the most 

 convenient position to effect this, but keeping 

 it still in a smart bottom-heat. Some cultiva- 

 tors train this plant with good effect to a balloon- 

 shaped trellis, and in such a way it has a very 

 good effect. 



One of the most difficult to manage well of 

 the bulbous tribe is the genus Cyrtanthus. The 

 greenhouse temperature appears to be too low 

 for it, while that of the stove is as much too 

 high. It suffers much if kept in a constant 

 state of excitement. The late Dean Herbert 

 remarks of this genus that it is altogether diffi- 

 cult to manage, the bulbs being more disposed 

 to dwindle and rot than to increase in size. A 

 light soil, and keeping the plants near to the 

 glass in an intermediate temperature, is most 

 favourable for their growth ; and although we 

 have not tried the experiment, still it may be that 

 covering the bulbs with soil, as practised with 

 Brunsvigia Josephinae, may have its advantages. 



Of the beautiM Griffinia it behoves us to say 



