82 THE RIVER ZAMBEZI AND ITS SCENERY 



Lupata Gorge, surely the most entrancing piece of 

 Zambezi River scenery eastward of the Victoria Falls. 



These hills, through which the Lupata Gorge 

 pierces its way, present few if any distinctive 

 features until the station of Bandar, at the entrance 

 to the gorge, is reached. This station is situated 

 on the north bank, at the foot of a high, rocky, 

 tree-covered bluff, upon the stony face of which, in 

 execrable taste, the custom has been established for 

 passengers passing through for the first time to 

 paint their names — the splendid, rugged feature 

 being thus almost entirely spoilt. This bluff is 

 crowned by an immense baobab tree, and both bluff 

 and tree are objects of veneration to all passing 

 natives, who believe them to be haunted by the 

 spirits of the dead. On approaching, therefore, 

 they invariably remove their head coverings, and 

 pass by in silence. It is likewise customary from 

 time to time to deposit, at the foot of the baobab 

 mentioned, certain offerings of millet, flour, and 

 other gifts, doubtless to propitiate the unseen spirit 

 influences, and thus obtain favourable auguries of 

 contemplated undertakings. I am also informed 

 that the country hereabout teems with game, and 

 that lions are especially and unpleasantly numerous. 



Entering the Lupata Gorge from the eastward, 

 the river, here much narrower than a few miles 

 below, passes through a system of high, undu- 

 lating, sparsely wooded hills, which descend sheer 

 into the water, many rocky boulders of great size 

 enhancing the wild beauty of the scene. A mile 

 farther, and a high, conical peak isolates itself from 

 its suaver neighbours, throwing a deep shadow down 



