316 



THE NUT-^ CULTUEIST. 



all difficult to make live when transplanted, proTided 

 the branches or tops of the trees are reduced, to corre- 

 spond with loss of roots in digging up at the time of 

 removal. It may be well to give 

 a word of caution to the novice in 

 nut culture about pruning nut 

 trees in spring, after the sap begins 

 to flow ; for if done at this time 

 they will bleed freely and leave 

 unhealthy wounds and black, un- 

 sightly spots on the bark. Prune 

 walnuts in summer or early in 

 winter, to give time for the wounds 

 to season before the buds swell in 

 spring. If young trees are to be 

 dug up, prune after they are taken 

 from the ground, then the sap will 

 not flow from the wounds. This 

 is tnie of all deciduous trees, 

 vines and shrubs. If the trees 

 have few small roots when taken 

 up, prune severely ; but if roots 

 are abundant, little pruning will 

 be required. It is seldom, how- 

 ever, in transplanting walnuts, 

 that the pruning need be as severe 

 as recommended for the chestnut ; 

 in fact, having transplanted wal- 

 nuts of various species, and of 

 all ages from one to twenty years, 

 without the loss of a plant, I have 

 FIG. 75. SEEDLING WALNUT, comc to thc couclusion that they 

 are pretty safe trees to handle, in this climate, at least, 

 if not elsewhere. 



In seeking walnuts from a distance, for planting 

 anywhere in the Middle or Northern States, it will be 



