1905 FRUITS OF ONTARIO. 21 



leguminous cover crops furnish a much cheaper source of this essential but costly 

 element. 



Pruning. 



The object of pruning is to form a vigorous and evenly balanced tree, which 

 will produce annually a paying crop of good-sized, well-colored fruit. Unpruned 

 trees produce many small-sized unsalable apples. Pruning lessens the number of 

 apples per tree, but at the same time increases the size and improves the quality 

 of those produced. A heavy crop of good-sized fruit is not so serious a drain on 

 the vitality of the tree, nor on the fertility of the soil, as the same weight of 

 smaller apples would be, for it is the production of the seed which makes the 

 greatest drain on the tree and soil. 



Pruning should be practised every year without fail from the time the tree 

 is planted. In this way the operation is never a severe one, and the removal of 

 the large limbs becomes unnecessary. Limbs growing too strongly in any par- 

 ticular direction, which are liable to upset the balance of the tree, should be 

 headed back. Where two limbs cross, one of them should be removed. Branches 

 growing across, from one side to the other, should be cut out. Care should be 

 taken to leave sufficient twigs in the centre to protect from sun scald. Much 

 may be done in directing growth by heading back to a bud pointing in the de- 

 sired direction. It is while the trees are young that the greatest care in training 

 is required. 



A properly pruned apple tree should be open enough to admit sunlight and 

 permit of free circulation of air. Its lower branches should be trained high enough 

 to admit of easy cultivation, yet the top should not be so high that spraying and 

 harvesting are rendered difficult. Varieties differ more or less in their habit of 

 growth, and, while it may be advisable to modify this to some extent, it is not well 

 to attempt to change it unduly. Long bare branches should be avoided, and the 

 formation of fruit spurs should be encouraged on all parts of the tree. 



The best time for pruning is just before growth begins. Wounds made at 

 that season soon heal over. It is not well to prune when there is frost on the 

 wood. Pruning while the tree is dormant tends to increase the growth of wood. 

 Summer pruning encourages the formation of fruit buds, but it is not advisable 

 to do much of it, as the removal of any considerable amount of the leaf area tends 

 to check the vigor of the tree. Pruning by the removal of buds may be practised 

 at any season of the year. 



The thumb and finger may be used for the removal of sprouts and buds dur- 

 ing the summer. A pair of small pruning shears will remove all twigs less than 

 half an inch in diameter. For larger limbs a sharp fine-tooth saw is needed. 

 Make all cuts as smooth as possible and close to the main stem. When a large 

 limb has to be removed, it may be advisable to cut twice, the first some inches out 

 to avoid splitting, and the second to shorten the stub. A common mistake is the 

 leaving of long stubs which cannot heal over before rot begins. Where it is 

 necessary to remove large limbs, the wounds should be covered with grafting 

 wax or thick lead paint to prevent the entrance of spores which cause decay. 



Grafting. 



Grafting is the operation of inserting a scion into a stock, usually for the 

 object of changing the variety of fruit produced. Trees bearing undesirable fruit 

 may be top-grafted with some valuable variety. Many choice half-hardy varieties 

 may be successfully grown by top-working on some hardy stock. Especially de- 

 sirable characteristics in any variety may be perpetuated by grafting. Individu- 



