168 THROUGH SOMALILAND AND ABYSSINIA CH. VI 
to Harar. I got the exercise, but did not enjoy the trip, because 
I was dogged the whole way by a hundred Galla peasants and 
Abyssinian soldiers. 
We set out from Basha-Basha’s on the morning of the 16th 
March at seven o’clock. I left all the camels and camp at 
Feyambiro, taking on with me only my servants and a little 
personal baggage, the transport of mules and porters being 
supplied free of charge by Gabratagli. Passing over very hilly 
country intersected by deep gorges, we arrived at Harar at 
2 p.m., being escorted for the last two or three miles by several 
companies of the soldiers of the Ras, in clean white dress, to the 
number of about a thousand. 
As we arrived at the head of each company, the men 
presented arms in the Abyssinian way, and were marched off 
in front or in rear of the procession according to the place 
assigned them, the whole being under the command of a Geras- 
match, or General of the Left. 
Near Harar I caught sight of a European white helmet, and 
was met by Signor Felter, an Italian merchant, who spoke 
French fluently, and kindly offered to come with me as far as 
Makunan’s house. Count Salimbeni and Signor Felter and 
another gentleman formed the Italian community at Harar at 
the time of my visit. The former had represented the Italian 
Government, but was shortly leaving for Aden. 
I had an interview with the Ras at his audience-house in the 
centre of the town, the members of his household and leading 
men of Harar being present. The audience-room or shed was 
decorated with carpets, a raised dais at one end being reserved 
for the Ris; a European easy-chair or two occupied one side of 
the room, while the natives squatted on their heels on the 
carpets. The interview was short, as is the custom on first 
meeting, the visitor being supposed to be tired after his journey. 
Ras Makunan asked me a few questions about Aden. It seems 
that not long ago he went to Rome, where he received a decora- 
tion. He is well informed on European subjects. 
After this interview I was taken to the honse of Alaka Gobau 
Desta. He appeared a learned man, and his position in England 
would have been something similar to that of a college “Don,” 
though I think Alaka simply means “chief.” He spoke excellent 
English, and said he was a native of Gondar in Abyssinia. In 
the trimming of his hair and beard he called to mind pictures of 
Spanish gentlemen about the time of Queen Elizabeth. He was 
