260 



THE bbe-kbbper's guide ; 



loose from the sides, turns the hive into the natural position, 

 then strikes against the top of the hive with a hammer till the 

 fastening's are broken loose, when he lifts the hive, and the 

 combs are all free and in convenient shape for rapid work. 



We now need a barrel, set on end, on which we place a 

 board fifteen to twenty inches square, covered with several 

 thicknesses of cloth. Some apiarists think the cloth useless, 

 but it serves, I think, to prevent injury to comb, brood or 

 honey. We now place a comb on this cloth, and set a frame 

 on the comb, and cut out a piece of the comb the size of the 

 inside of the frame, taking pains to save all the worker-brood. 

 Now crowd the frame over the comb, so that the latter will be 

 in the same position that it was when in the old hive ; that is, 

 so the honey will be above — the position is not very important 

 ^then fasten the comb in the frame, by winding about all one 

 or two small wires, or pieces of wrapping-twine. To raise the 

 frame and comb before fastening, raise the board beneath till 



Fig. 121. 



Fig. 122. 



Tra7ififcr ring-Clasp. — 

 From American BeetTouriial. 



Transferred Comb. — From Americati Bee Journal. 



the frame is vertical. Set this frame in the new hive, and 

 proceed with the others in the same way till we have all the 

 worker-comb — that with small cells — fastened in. To secure 

 the pieces, which we shall find abundant at the end, take thin 

 pieces of wood, one-half inch wide, and a trifle longer than the 

 frame is deep, place these in pairs either side the comb, 

 extending up and down, and enough to hold the pieces secure 

 till the bees shall fasten them (Fig. 121), and secure the strips 

 by winding with small wire, just below the frame (Fig. 122), 

 or by use of small rubber bands, or else tack them to the frame 



