192 NEW ZEALAND CHAP. VIII 
In our walks we met with many houses in the valleys 
that seemed to be quite deserted. The people lived on the 
ridges of hills in very slightly-built houses, or rather sheds. 
For what reason they have left the valleys we can only 
guess, maybe for air, but if so they purchase that con- 
venience at a dear rate, as all their fishing tackle and lobster 
pots, of which they have many, must be brought up with 
no small labour. 
We saw also an extraordinary natural curiosity. In pur- 
suing a valley bounded on each side by steep hills, we 
suddenly saw a most noble arch or cavern through the face 
of a rock leading directly to the sea, so that through it we 
had not only a view of the bay and hills on the other side, 
but an opportunity of imagining a ship or any other grand 
object opposite to it. It was certainly the most magnificent 
surprise I have ever met with; so much is pure nature 
superior to art in these cases. I have seen such places 
made by art, where from an inland view you were led 
through an arch 6 feet wide, and 7 feet high, to a prospect 
of the sea; but here was an arch 25 yards in length, 
9 in breadth, and at least 15 in height. 
Tn the evening we returned to the watering-place, in order 
to go on board with our treasure of plants, birds, etc., but were 
prevented by an old man who detained us some time in show- 
ing us their exercises with arms, lances, and patoo patoos. The 
lance is made of a hard wood, from 10 to 14 feet long, 
and very sharp at the ends. A stick was set up as an 
enemy; to this he advanced with a most furious aspect, 
brandishing his lance, which he held with great firmness; 
after some time he ran at the stick, and, supposing it a 
man run through the body, immediately fell upon the upper 
end of it, dealing it most merciless blows with his patoo 
patoo, any one of which would have probably split most 
skulls. From this I should conclude that they give no 
quarter. 
25th. Went ashore this morning and renewed our 
search for plants, etc., with great success. In the mean- 
time Tupia, who stayed with the waterers, had much conver- 
