326 PROSE HALIEUTICS. 



Alose. 



QpL(T(ra, KOL Ta Ofioyevr}, evavaboTos. 



There can be little doubt that the Opuraa of the 

 Greeks, — so called aTro t&v Tpixa>v, from the number of 

 fine bones which intersect its flesh, as they do that of 

 most members of the Clupean family, — is the same fish 

 as the modem shad. Few species have been at once so 

 lauded and abused; and though caprice may have not a 

 little to do in settling the culinary merits of any article 

 of diet (as of many other things besides), yet, here at 

 least there seems good reason for a discrepancy of opi- 

 nion ; for the same kind of alose, taken at sea in winter, 

 is a dry, poor fish, becomes, after a month's sojourn in 

 fresh water in spring, a very sapid, plump, and delicate 

 one ; besides it is now generally agreed that there are 

 two distinct species of equally common Bpicrcra; fre- 

 quenting the same streams at nearly the same period of 

 the year, and only to be known at market (at table they 

 are easily distinguished) by a difference in size, and by 

 the presence or want of some rows of very small delicate 

 teeth. There can be little doubt, therefore, that both in 

 ancient and more recent times, the two have been fre- 

 quently confounded ; and the report would be favourable 

 or the reverse, according to the kind tried,* for most per- 

 sons are agreed as to the excellence of the larger, or alice 



faitliful ; heace the papacy has warm supporters in the fishermen 

 at Yarmouth and Lowestoft, who drink 



' Here's to his Hohness the Pope, with his triple crown, 

 With nine dollars each, for each cask in the town.' 

 * The Russians, not generally supposed to be squeamish in 

 their diet, entertain a prejudice against alose ; and prefer, it is 

 said, not to find it in their nets : whenever this occurs, they hand 

 it over to the Tartars for the smallest, or even without any com- 

 pensation. The Arab plan of dealing with this shad is to dry- 

 smoke after the manner of herrings, and to eat them with dates. 



