394 PEOSE HALIEUTIOS. 



though despising a muddy diamond, does not think less 

 highly of those of a purer water. 



Congers are still extensively disposed of in France. 

 We have spoken elsewhere of the refreshing beauty of 

 Italian fish-markets at early morning : those along the 

 coast of Normandy form a striking contrast, from the 

 nauseous superfluity of these creatures; more particu- 

 larly at Boulogne and Dieppe, where they predominate 

 over all other fish, and fiU whole rows of hampers with 

 wriggliag coils, a sight which, as they lie twisting and 

 untwisting in endless writhings, and turn up successively 

 their dirty white bellies or brown lubric backs, is enough 

 to sicken the stomach of all but initiated beholders. In. 

 Spain also this fish is in the ascendant : it is there not only 

 eaten fresh, but dry-salted, and ground down into flour,* 

 to thicken the common soups of the country, as Parme- 

 san enriches the ' minestras' of Italy. In WiUughby's 

 time, large consignments of dried conger-flour were ex- 

 ported from Cornwall to Portugal ; the Portugiiese em- 

 ploying it in place of oatmeal for porridge. The Orca- 

 deans still consume large quantities in both ways, and 

 get, it is said, considerable supplies from the otters, who 

 bring them on shore for the sake of a small tit-bit, and 

 as soon as it has been secured leave the rest of the car- 

 case for the benefit of the islanders. With us the days 

 for eating conger are passed, and, as with those of ' pro- 

 tection,' without much prospect of a return. This fish 

 is now only the food of shipwrecked sailors, and lands- 

 men who have no other resource. 



* The process of converting dried fisL. into flour was known 

 and adopted in early times. Thus Adrian mentions that Alex- 

 ander's admiral touched at an island in the Persian Gulf, the in- 

 habitants of which converted their fish into meal ; and having no 

 other food nor provender, fed themselves and their live-stock upon 

 fish-bread, communicating thereby a fishy flavour to the meat. 



