386 THE PRACTICE OF PRUNING. 



These facts are the foundation of all the long intricate plans for pruning 

 and training this tree. The following are, I think, the best concise directions 

 which have yet been given on this subject : — 



" Commencing with the winter pruning, the first rule to be laid down as a 

 basis for all the rest, is to shorten every shoot in proportion to its strength, 

 and to prune to where the wood is firm and well ripened : this wiU cause all 

 the pithy and unripened wood to be removed, thence ensuring a supply of that 

 which is better ripened for the ensuing year. But in order to give every 

 faeUity to the ripening of this wood, it must he trained thin, not in pro- 

 fusion according to the general custom, but such shoots only as may be 

 req^uired for the following year. 



" Trees which have arrived at a bearing state should have their strongest 

 bearing shoots shortened to twelve or fourteen inches, those next in strength 

 to eight or ten, and the weaker ones to four or six inches, pruning each to 

 what is termed a treble eye, or that where there is a blossom-bud on each 

 side of wood-bud : where branches are not in a bearing state, these treble 

 eyes will not be found ; they must therefore be pruned to a wood-bud alone, 

 which is always known by its sharp point. 



" In May, the season for disbudding the tree, all foreright shoots, as well 

 as those from the back, must be carefully removed with a sharp small 

 bladed knife, taking care to out close to the branch, but not into the bark : 

 a few, however, of these foreright shoots had better be cut within a quarter 

 of an inch only, which wHL leave two or three leaves to each, to shade the 

 young fruit, and such slight wounds in the branch as have been occasioned 

 by cutting the shoots ofi^ close. 



" As soon as the young shoots have grown long enough, the leading one 

 from each branch should be nailed neatly to the wall, selecting one or two 

 of the side shoots produced lower down the branch, and training them 

 parallel also. This applies to those of the stronger branches, at and near 

 the extremity of the tree. Those in the middle and near the bottom, wiU 

 allow of but one shoot probably in addition to the leaders ; this wiU depend 

 upon the space left in the winter pruning ; if sufficient, it is always better 

 to have a young shoot on each side as well as the leader, than to have only 

 one, for it is by this arrangement that a succession of young wood can be 

 kept up throughout every part of the tree. 



" Should young shoots, indicating extraordinary vigour, any where make 

 their , appearance, they should immediately be cut out, unless where a 

 vacant part of the waU can be filled up, because an excess of vigour in one 

 part of the tree cannot be supported without detriment to the other. Peach- 

 trees, when in a state of health and vigour, generally throw out laterals 

 from their stronger shoots ; when this is the case, they should not be cut off 

 close, but shortened to the last eye nearest the branch ; and if there is 

 room, one or two of those first produced may be nailed to the wall ; or the 

 middle shoot, may be out out, leaving the two lowest laterals, and allowing 

 them to take its place ; thus frequently obtaining two fruit-bearing 



