392 THE PBACTICE OF PRUNING. 



wards, or to eitHer side, to an extent sufficient for ordinary cultivation. 

 The pruning of one of tlie leading branches may now be detailed from 

 its commencement. In autumn, or early part of winter, the shoot ought 

 to be shortened to some extent, bearing in mind that generally the 

 three buds immediately below the section will break into shoots : therefore, 

 it will be advisable to cut where another leader is required to originate. 

 This is the first winter pruning. The second will consist in shorteiiing the 

 leading shoot about one-third ; and also the other shoot intended for an 

 adjoining leader. If there should be another young shoot growing strongly 

 where not wanted, it may be cut off close ; and others, weaker, may be out 

 like that marked c on the right of the engraving. The next season the 

 leader should be shortened, and laterals cut to one eye, if weak, but other- 

 wise three or four eyes may be left on these, some of which wiU probably 

 break into shoots, and others wUl form fruit-spurs. The other branches wiU 

 require a similar treatment. Young shoots should be trained up to supply 

 the place of any branch exhibiting symptoms of decay. 



In the midland and northern counties an open cup form of bush is 

 generally aimed at in pruning ; on the contrary, in some cases in the south, 

 although the branches are pruned and thinned, yet some are left in the 

 centre for the purpose of shade, otherwise the fruit would be scorched. 



The Ctjeeani-btjsh. 



Under every mode of training, the red Currant, and also the white, require 

 to be regularly pruned every year. In rearing the young plants, the first 

 thing to be aimed at is a clear stem, about five inches in length, free from 

 suckers. In preparing the cutting, care should be taken to remove all the 

 buds on the portion intended to be inserted in the ground, otherwise many 

 of them would form suckers, injurious to the plants, and troublesome to dis- 

 place effectually. In some cases cuttings can be obtained long enough to 

 afford at once the proper length of stem ; but when such cannot be had, 

 when the cutting is altogether too short, or proves so after the necessary 

 removal of the imperfectly formed wood at top, then three buds above the 

 surface of the ground wUl be sufficient. These will generally produce three 

 shoots, all of which may be allowed to grow during the first summer after 

 the cutting has been planted, in order to assist in forming roots. Supposing 

 the plant is intended for the open ground, and that it is to be trained in the 

 usual way, open in the centre ; then in autumn, after the leaves have fallen, 

 two out of the three shoots which the plant has made should be cut off, and 

 the third, selected as the most eligible for a stem, should be shortened, so 

 that the third bud below the cut may be five inches above the ground. Three 

 shoots will generally be produced the following summer. In autumn the 

 plants wUl require to be planted out where they are to remain, and at the 

 same time the shoots should be out back to about four inches, taking care to 

 cut above buds pointing ontwards. We have now a stem five inches high, 



