134 Letter VITI. 
As Maré was the only island which I visited, I shall speak 
of it alone, although, from the great similarity which exists be- 
tween the islands of this group, nearly all that is said of one 
will apply equally well to the other. 
On approaching this island I was struck with the curious re- 
semblance which the outlines of the land exhibit to long 
ranges of fortifications, and also with the peculiar appearance 
which the pines give to the landscape, as they stand clustered 
in sombre groups, like giant sentinels guarding the coral forts. 
These pines are not found on the New Hebrides, being con- 
fined to the Loyalty Islands and New Caledonia. They bear, 
however, a considerable resemblance to the Norfolk Island 
pine. Some of the islets near Maré are thickly covered with 
them, and from a distance their appearance is highly suggestive 
of marine hedgehogs with bristles erect. 
The islands of this group were at one time thickly populated, 
but the natives are now greatly diminished in numbers. They 
are a strongly-made people, active but not good-looking, the 
women especially being the reverse of beautiful. Thirty years 
ago they were amongst the worst of heathen tribes; now they are 
the most advanced of any natives in Western Polynesia. This 
remark applies especially to the inhabitants of Maré. 
For the change that has taken place, there must be a cause. 
Shall we ascribe it, as some may be disposed to do, to their 
contact with the traders and ship captains ? or with others, 
shall we put it down to the influence of missionary opera- 
tions P 
Here is a specimen of what happens too frequently in the 
attempt to establish a trade with these natives. 
A boat’s crew goes ashore from a vessel, for yams : a quarrel 
arises,—all the whites are killed and eaten. Another ship 
