204 •'^ summer's cruise to northern LABRADOR. 



of the organ, which was well played by an Eskimo boy. 

 From the chapel all dispersed to their quarters, and the 

 settlement long before dark was buried in profound 

 silence. 



Sunday, the 31st July, was a warm, sunny day, unfor- 

 tunately as much enjoyed by the mosquitoes and black- 

 flies as by us. In the forenoon we went to the service, 

 which was simple and brief, the natives not being 

 wearied with a long discourse ; like the yesterday even- 

 ing prayers it consisted simply of an invocation or ad- 

 dress, congregational singing and the litany, and in half 

 an hour the assembly dispersed. 



The day was observed by the natives and all others 

 with more reverence than we have noticed in Lutheran 

 countries. The evening by invitation was spent aboard 

 the " Harmony." Captain Linklater, an unusually in- 

 telligent man, was, as he told us, six weeks on his voy- 

 age from London here ; he generally first sights Cape 

 Webuc, though steering for " The Beacon" below Hope- 

 dale. 



In sailing from Hopedale to Nain the " Harmony" 

 takes an inside course. Above this point the coast is still 

 more deeply indented by bays and fjords, their mouths 

 checked with islands which extend fifty miles or more out 

 to sea. The captain is ordered by the company or gov- 

 ernor to take two Eskimo pilots from each port ; he gen- 

 erally leaves them to return when fifteen miles out from 

 harbor, as they are unacquainted with the rocks and 

 shoals. Navigation to Nain is represented to be difficult ; 

 at one place the vessel has to double two points closing 

 in one beyond the other. The captain while in harbor is 

 gradually making charts of the coast, which at best can 



