105 



The plant must be well thinned as early as possible 

 in the autumn. Retain only the very best first and second 

 year wood. The first year shoots may be left long or 

 shortened as the appearance of the plant requires. The 

 tendency of the plant to become bare at the base may be 

 counteracted by shortening some of the lesser stems to 

 induce the lower buds to break. On the second year 

 stems only sound and strong laterals should be retained^ 

 and they may be left long or shortened as required. 

 The shortening should be done in the early spring. 



Varieties which are the result of hybridising with 

 Wichuraiana roses have the characteristics of that group^ 

 and should be treated as advised in Instruction 37. 



The perpetual flowering varieties like Trier are less 

 rampant in growth and require little more than the 

 removal of old, unripened and unnecessary shoots. 

 This should be done in the winter or early spring. 



INSTRUCTION 28. 



SPECIES AND THEIR VARIETIES.— Pranc in 



February or March. 



These need, as a rule, no pruning beyond the 

 removal each year of some of the dead wood. The 

 strong young shoots from the base of the plants will 

 sometimes require shortening back to well-ripened wood, 

 as their tips are apt to die back after the winter frosts. 

 Where any Rose requires exceptional treatment in- 

 structions are given after the name of it. 



alpina. Treat as a 4-ft. to 5-ft. bush. Tip the 

 strong shoots and shorten the laterals and weaker base 

 shoots. It will not require much thinning. 



alpina pyrenaica. A dwarf growing variety, with 

 thorns. Treat in the same way as alpina. 



