SETTLEMENT IN THE WEST 191 
roads, but soon reached a tavern called the “Jacob Hoff,” where 
we breakfasted. Still pushing forward, at noon we came to the 
small house of a family called Margennefs, and procured a 
meager lunch. At a short distance from this place a change 
of horses was made, and after driving all the afternoon we 
entered the attractive village of Greensburg, where we spent 
the night. Rising reluctantly at peep of day, we continued 
on our course and made ten miles before breakfasting at a 
tavern, the “Stewart Auberge” by name. After leaving this 
point we came to Turtle Creek, when the road descended so 
abruptly that it was decided to dismount and walk, but the 
heat was sultry and oppressive, and we suffered greatly. At 
last, however, the city of Pittsburgh was reached, and there 
we found good and commodious lodgings at the Jefferson Hotel, 
conducted by Mr. Galland, a most genial and agreeable host. 
We remained in Pittsburgh several days, and became ac- 
quainted with many of its citizens, among whom were several 
countrymen of ours who were engaged in business and were 
very congenial and hospitable. The city does not present a 
pleasing appearance; it has been increasing in size with astound- 
ing rapidity,* and possesses a remarkable commerce; the Ohio 
River there is most beautiful. 
The remainder of our journey was by way of the Ohio, 
and we made it entirely in an open flatboat, a cumbersome un- 
wieldy craft, managed by hand, and in this particular instance 
very badly. One who has never had this experience can little 
understand the terrible monotony, hardships and deprivations 
encountered on a long journey such as we endured. We were 
unprotected from the elements, and our beds consisted of bare 
pine boards, upon which we slept as best we could, enveloped 
in our great coats. 
There were times without number when our boat would 
run upon hidden sand bars to become grounded, and we were 
then often obliged to get into the cold water and assist in the 
work of extricating her. At other times, unprotected as we 
*The population of the second city of Pennsylvania in 1800 was 1,565; 
in 1840, 4,768; and in 1910, after the annexation of Allegheny, 533,905. 
