THE EUROPEAN JOURNALS 239 



saw York Minster six or seven miles before reaching the 

 town, that is entered by old gates. The streets are disgust- 

 ingly crooked and narrow, and crossed like the burrows of 

 a rabbit-warren. I was put down at the Black Swan. 

 Though the coach was full, not a word had been spoken 

 except an occasional oath at the weather, which was indeed 

 very cold ; and I, with all the other passengers, went at 

 once to the fires. Anxious to find lodgings not at the 

 Black Swan, I went to Rev. Wm. Turner, son of a gen- 

 tleman I had met at Newcastle, for information. His 

 father had prepared him for my visit at my request, and I 

 was soon installed at Mrs. Pulleyn's in Blake Street. My 

 present landlady's weight, in ratio with that of her husband, 

 is as one pound avoirdupois to one ounce apothecary ! 

 She looks like a round of beef, he like a farthing candle. 

 Oh that I were in Louisiana, strolling about the woods, look- 

 ing in the gigantic poplars for new birds and new flowers ! 



April 23, Monday. The weather looked more like ap- 

 proaching winter than spring; indeed snow fell at short 

 intervals, and it rained, and was extremely cold and misty. 

 Nothwithstanding the disagreeable temperature, I have 

 walked a good deal. I delivered my letters as early as 

 propriety would allow, but found no one in ; at least I was 

 told so, for beyond that I cannot say with any degree of 

 accuracy I fear. The Rev. Mr. Turner called with the 

 curator of the Museum, to whom I showed some drawings. 

 After my dinner, eaten solus, I went out again ; the Minster 

 is undoubtedly the finest piece of ancient architecture I 

 have seen since I was in France, if my recollection serves 

 me. I walked round and round it for a long time, examin- 

 ing its height, form,,composition, and details, until my neck 

 ached. The details are wonderful indeed, — all cut of the 

 same stone that forms the mass outwardly. Leaving it 

 and going without caring about my course, I found myself 

 in front of an ancient castle,^ standing on a mound, 

 1 Probably St. Mary's Abbey. 



