THROUGH WILD EUROPE 139 



He declared himself unable to leave without pro- 

 curing a substitute to do his work — and it seemed 

 there was only one man in the place able to do the 

 work. This one man naturally stuck out for his 

 price ; and eventually I had to promise to pay all 

 expenses and .£1 per day. 



This matter being at last settled, two horses were 

 engaged for the next day for us to ride, and two 

 more, in charge of two men, as pack-horses to carry 

 the luggage. We had a long and difficult journey 

 in front of us, so an early start was made. After 

 crossing the little ferry an hour beyond the town 

 we struck off to the hills, crossing them in single 

 file by means of a winding track. These tracks in 

 Montenegro, as in Albania, over the mountains are 

 probably nearly as old as the mountains themselves. 

 As our horses toiled upwards in single file I noticed 

 that each horse put its feet into the same place as 

 the one preceding it, and looking more closely, it 

 was evident that the solid, living rock was worn 

 into holes like a rough stairway. What countless 

 generations of men and horses must have passed 

 over these mountains to have thus eaten out a 

 visible path ! The rocks, could they but speak, 

 could tell queer tales of rapine, murder, and blood- 

 shed. For thousands of years this country has 

 been the scene of endless fighting, invasions, and 

 marauding forays. 



