2 4 o BIRD-HUNTING 



the very same day, for riding back to the town a 

 stubborn, hard-mouthed brute of a horse, it took 

 fright at something and nearly backed over the edge 

 of a raised causeway about three feet high. I only 

 had a stick, and the more I belaboured the beast 

 the more backward it went until we were half over. 

 I believe we should have gone over if a man had 

 not seized him by the bridle, and led him past the v 

 offending object. If I had had my spurs I should 

 never have been in such an ignominious and un- 

 dignified position, but could have given him a 

 lesson he would have remembered for some time. 

 Travelling on these expeditions, when one has to 

 ride everything in the shape of ahorse which happens 

 to be available, spurs are a sine qua non, and I have 

 found them invaluable many and many a time. 



B 's successor at the Consulate most kindly put 



me up for a day and night until the arrival of the 

 steamer, otherwise I should have had to stay at 

 the dirty little albergo in the town. I had already 

 slept there for a week on first coming to Durazzo, 

 as the rooms were all occupied at the Consulate. 

 There is no better hotel, but the place stank most 

 frightfully, and nothing short of starvation could 

 have compelled me to have eaten a meal in such a 

 dirty hole. There had been a venerable-looking old 

 Turkish officer staying there, with whom I had 

 promised to change rooms, as it appeared that my 



