12 SHADE TREE GUIDE. 



Fertilizer. It is not necessary to transport inland soil, the poor- 

 est sand may be treated thus : 



Add to the native soil: 



Oyster shell lime 9 pounds 



Wood ashes 2^ 



Composted (not fresh) manure 5° 



Or as a substitute for the manure, not 

 in addition, 

 A mixed fertiliser composed of: 

 2 parts tankage 



2 " ground fish I 2 l/ 2 pounds 



3 acid phosphate 



3 " muriate potash . 



The quantities named are enough for 100 square feet of ground. 

 As root spread is assumed to be equal to crown spread, a tree with 

 a crown 6 feet in diameter will have roots covering about 30 square 

 feet and will require three-tenths of the above. Do not use more or 

 the trees will be injured. Apply the fertilizer every spring; the 

 lime and wood ashes every three or four years. As a sandy soil is 

 always porous frequent and abundant watering is necessary. 



Support. Until it is firmly established every tree exposed to 

 strong winds must be firmly supported by a stout stake or by three 

 or four wires secured to pegs firmly driven into the ground. This 

 is even more important in winter than in summer. 



What to plant. For street planting the choice of species should 

 be limited to sycamore, ailanthus, pin oak, scarlet oak, red oak, hack- 

 berry, honey locust, red maple, and in most situations preference 

 given in the order named, altho it is not advisable that too many of 

 the same kind be used. Upon lawns oaks and pines, with various 

 hardy shrubs, are to be preferred to the firs, spruces and cypresses, 

 and the many deciduous trees, that are available inland. 



Nourishment 



More trees suffer from starvation than from anything else. On 

 lawns as on sidewalks a tree's natural food (fallen leaves etc ) is 

 taken away, water is denied and both rain and air are excluded 'by 

 close pavements, or by sod. The consequent weakened condition 

 induces disease and insect attack. Don't plant a tree unless it can 

 have at least 6 square feet of open soil at its base. For several years 

 after a tree is planted this is imperative, afterwards sod, not pav- 

 ing, may be tolerated. Frequent working of the surface soil, as in 

 any garden, will tend to keep a tree in good condition 



