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APPENDIX G 



HOW A FRENCH CHEF COOKS HIS 

 SQQAiSS, by A. Escoffier. To the optimistic 

 American a pigeon is nearly always a squab, 

 just as a hen is always a chicken. In the 

 following receipts a pigeon may be replaced by" 

 a well-grown squab, but in cases where genuine 

 squabs from three to four weeks old must be 

 used, that word squab is employed. The meat 

 of the pigeon, though dark, has an excellent 

 flavor, is tender, stimulating, easily digested. 

 It is very suitable for delicate persons who 

 need good nourishment. The squab is a par- 

 ticularly delicate food. It may be eaten ftom 

 twelve to thirty days after hatching. The 

 pigeon may be served in many ways — as^ an 

 entree, in a compote, in a pate, as a galantine, 

 cold in a deep dish, or " en terrine," as we say 

 in France. 



Pigeon Soup with Curry 



This is one of the most delicious and nourish- 

 ing soups of our cuisine. 



The following quantities of materials will 

 provide soup for six persons: Two large pi- 

 geons, cleaned, singed and each divided into four 

 pieces ; two large onions chopped up ; two large 

 soupspoonfuls of butter, three soupspoonfuls of 

 curry powder, five pints of water, half an ounce 

 of salt, a bouquet made of sprigs of parsley, 

 a bay leaf and a mite of garlic (the last named 

 being quite optional) and six to eight table- 

 spoonfuls of rice. 



Melt the butter in a saucei)an, add the onion 

 and let it cook for several minutes on a gentle 

 fire. Add the pigeons and cook them from ten 

 to twelve minutes with the onion. _ Then pour 

 the curry powder over them. Stir the whole 

 with a spoon and add the water, salt and the 

 bouquet. Bring the liquid to a boil and cover 

 the saucepan. After fifteen minutes' cooking 

 add the rice and let it cook twenty to twenty- 

 five minutes and serve. 



The above receipt is reduced to its most 

 simple form, and is very suitable for a small 

 household. The soup, however, may be re- 

 fined by replacing the water with bouillon 

 (broth) by straining the onion after cooking 

 through a fine strainer, and by only using the 

 filets of the pigeons, after removing the skin, 

 and cutting the filets in squares, which you add 

 at the moment of serving to the^ boiling soup, 

 with several tablespoonfuls of rice cooked m 

 broth. 



Pigeon and Barley Soup 



The following quantities are sufficient for six 

 persons: Two large pigeons cleaned, singed 

 and divided into four parts; one large onion 

 chopped fine, two medium-sized carrots cut in 

 little squares, six to eight tablespoonfuls of 

 cleaned barley, two large soupspoonfuls of but- 

 ter, half an ounce of suet, a pinch of pepper, a 

 bay leaf and three pints of water. 



Melt the butter m a saucepan, add the onion 

 and let it cook several minutes on a gentle fire. 

 Then add the pigeons, cook them eight to ten 

 minutes with the onion. Then add the carrots, 

 barley, water, sialt, pepper and the bay leaf. 

 Cover the saucepan and let it boil on a gentle 

 fire for about an hour and a quarter. 



This soup may be improved in the manner 

 indicated in the other soups. A few spoonfuls 

 of green peas during- the season will give it a 

 particularly exquisite flavor. 



Cream of Pigeon Soup 



Quantities for six persons : Two pigeons, 

 cleaned, singed and divided into four parts; 

 one large onion chopped up, two large soup- 

 spoonfuls of butter, h.alf an ounce of salt, one 

 pinch of pepper, six to eight soupspoonfuls' of 

 flour, one bouquet made of parsley sprigs, a 

 bay leaf and sprigs of thyme well tied together, 

 two full quarts of water and half a pint of fresh 

 cream. 



Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the onion 

 and the pigeons, let them cook for about fifteen 

 minutes on a gentle fire and then mix in the 

 flour. Let them cook again for a few minutes, 

 add the water and bring the liquid to a boil, 

 taking care to stir the mixture with a wooden 

 spoon, so that the flour may be well dissolved 

 and not stick to the bottom of the saucepan. 

 At the first boiling remove the saucepan to the 

 comer of the fire and then add the salt, pepper 

 and the bouquet. Let it cook again at a gentle 

 fire for about an hour. 



Finally remove the pieces of pigeon. Cut 

 the lean meat in squares and keep it warm^ 

 Strain the soup^ through a fine tammy or 

 strainer and put it back m a fresh, clean sauce- 

 pan, keeping it hot. 



At the moment of serving add the cream, 

 mixing it well with the soup, which should be 

 boiling. Pour it into a soup tureen with the 

 little squares of meat you have kept in reserve. 



You may also at the time of serving add to 

 this cream some spoonfuls of rice or cooked 

 barley or Italian paste. 



Pigeon and Tomato Soup 

 The preparation of this soup is nearly the 

 same as the preceding, except that the curry is 

 replaced by seven to eight large firm tomatoes, 

 skmned, seeded and chopped up. The bouquet 

 is made of the same materials, the proportions 

 of water, salt and rice are the same, but you 

 must add also a pinch of pepper. 



This receipt may also be elaborated for more 

 expensive tastes, as the other soup is. 



When fresh tomatoes are not obtainable they 

 may be replaced by tomato puree. 



Pigeon and Pea Soup a la Paysanne 



Quantities for six persons: Two pigeons, 

 cleaned and singed; one large or several small 

 . new onions chopped up ; two saucespoonfuls of 

 butter; two ounces of lean bacon, cut in small 

 squares; a quart of large peas; two lettuces, 

 well cleaned and cut in squares ; half an ounce 

 of salt, a pinch of pepper, a piece of sugar, five 

 pints of not water, a bouquet garni made of 

 sprigs of parsley and a bay leaf. 



Melt ttie bacon and butter in a saucepan. 

 Add the onion and the pigeons. Let them 

 cook ten to twelve minutes on a gentle fire. 

 Then add the peas, the lettuce, the water, the 

 salt, the pepper, the sugar and the bouquet. 



