CHAPTER II 
UNEXPLORED SPAIN (Continued) 
ON TRAVEL AND OTHER THINGS 
TRAVEL in all the wilder regions of Spain implies the saddle. 
Our Spain begins, as premised, where roads end. For us 
railways exist merely to help us one degree nearer to the final 
plunge into the unknown ; 
and not railways only, but 
roads and bridges soon “ petter 
out” into trackless waste, and 
leave the explorer face to face 
with open wilds—despoblados, 
that is, uninhabited regions— 
with a route-map in his pocket 
that is quite unreliable, and a 
trusty local guide who is just 
the reverse. 
Riding light, with the “ir- 
reducible minimum” stowed 
in the saddle-bags, one may 
traverse Spain from end to 
end. But it is only a hasty Teree OF BRANISS, BiROdiE 
and superficial view that is FANTAIL WARBLER (Cisticola cursitans) 
thus obtainable, and except Resident : builds a deep purse-like nest supported 
for those who love roughing pee nee 
it for roughness’ sake, even the freedom of the saddle presents 
grave drawbacks in a land where none live in the country and 
none travel off stated tracks. In the campo, nothing—neither 
food for man nor beast—can be obtained, and no provision 
exists for travellers where travellers never come. The little 
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