18 Unexplored Spain 
rural hostelry of northern lands has no place; there is instead 
a venta or posada which may too often be likened to a stable 
for beasts with an extra stall for their riders. It is a characteristic 
of pastoral countries everywhere that their rude inhabitants 
discriminate little between the needs of man and beast. 
But even towns of quite considerable size—when far removed 
from the track—are 
totally devoid of inns 
in our sense. Inns 
are not needed. The 
few Spanish travel- 
lers who, greatly dar- 
ing, venture so far 
afield, usually be- 
speak beforehand the 
hospitality of some 
local friend or ac- 
quaintance. 
Incidentally it 
may be added that 
a visit to one of 
these out-of -the- 
world cities —asleep 
most of them for the 
last few centuries— 
ripe au Seuew Biante isa pleasing and rest- 
ROCK-THRUSH (Petrocincla sacatilis) ful change amidst the 
A beautiful spring- migrant to the highest sierras. Colours of racket of exploration. 
male: opal, orange, and black, with a white “mirror” in centre One breathes a medi- 
of back. Female, yellow-brown barred with black. 
geval atmosphere and 
marvels at the revelation, enjoying prehistoric peeps in lost 
cities replete for the antiquary with historic memorial and long- 
forgotten lore. No one cares. 
Yet in those bygone days of Spain’s world-power these 
somnolent spots produced the right stuff,—a minority, no doubt, 
belonged to the type satirised by Cervantes,—but many more 
strong in mind as in muscle, who went forth, knights-errant, 
Paladins and Crusaders, to conquer and to shape the course of 
history. Is the old spirit extinct ? Our own impression is that 
the material is there all right ready to spring to life like the 
