84 Unexplored Spain 
of fife and drum—had been audible, and during the twelve-mile 
ride next morning fresh contingents winding through the scrub- 
clad plain were constantly sighted, all converging upon Rocio. 
It was not, however, till reaching that hamlet that the full 
extent of the pilgrimage became apparent, and a striking and 
characteristic spectacle it formed. From every point of the 
compass were descried long files of white-tilted ox-waggons— 
hundreds of them—slowly advancing across the flower-starred 
plain; the waggons all bedecked in gala style, crammed to the 
last seat with guitar-touching girls, with smiling duennas and 
attendant squires; the ox-teams gaily caparisoned, and escorted 
by prancing cavaliers, many with wife or daughter mounted 
pillion-wise behind, while younger pilgrims challenged impromptu 
trials of speed—a series of minor steeplechases. There were 
four-in-hand brakes, mule-teams and donkey-carts, pious 
pedestrians—a motley parade enveloped in clouds of dust and 
noise, but all in perfect order. 
The following quaint description was written down for us 
by a Spanish friend who accompanied us :— 
It is at the entry of the various processions that the most striking 
and picturesque effects are produced by the cavalcade. Here one sees 
displayed the grace and ability of the Amazon—the robust and comely 
Andalucian maiden, carried & ancas (pillion-wise) at the back of his 
saddle by gallant cavalier proud of his gentle companion, and exhibiting 
to advantage his skill in horsemanship. The noble steed, conscious of its 
onerous part, carries the double burden with care and spirit, being trained 
to curvet and rear in all the bravery of medizval and Saracenic age. 
About 4 p.m., while the converging caravans were yet a mile 
or so afield, all halted, each to organise its own procession, and 
each headed by the waggon bearing its own Virgin bedecked 
in gorgeous apparels of silk and silver braid. Then to the 
accompaniment of bands: and bell-ringing, hand-clapping and 
castanets, drum, tambourine, and guitar, with flags flying and 
steeds curvetting, this singular combination of religious rite with 
musical fantasia resumed its advance into the village. 
Despite the dust and crush not a unit but held its assigned 
position, and thus—one long procession succeeding another—the 
whole concourse filed into the village, crossed its narrow green, 
and sought the shrine where, within the open doors, the Virgin 
of Rocio, removed from the altar, was placed to receive the 
