CHAPTER XX 
SIERRA DE GREDOS 
WE met, our trio, on the platform of Charing Cross—not classic 
but perhaps historic ground, since so many notable expeditions 
have started therefrom, with others of less importance. 
The heat in Madrid towards the end of August (1896) was 
not excessive—less than we had feared. We enjoyed, that 
Sunday, quite an excellent bull-fight, although the bulls them- 
selves had been advertised as of “only one horn” apiece (de 
un cuerno). There was no sign, however, of any cornual 
deficiency as each magnificent animal dashed into the arena, 
although with binoculars one could detect a slight splintering of 
one horn-point, a defect which had caused the rejection of that 
animal from the herd-list. For these bulls were, in fact, of notable 
blood—that of Ybarra of Sevillian vegas—and none bearing that 
name appear in first-class corridas save absolutely perfect and 
unblemished. 
The point illustrates the keen appreciation of quality in the 
fighting-bull, which in Spain goes without saying, yet may well de- 
ceive the casual stranger. Thus an American party who breakfasted 
with us (always keen to get the best, but not always knowing 
where to find it) despised the ‘‘ Unicorns” and reserved them- 
selves instead for the opera. We enjoyed an excellent fight with 
dashing bulls—two clearing the barrier and causing a fine 
stampede among the military, the police, and crowds of itinerant 
fruit- and water-sellers who occupy the Hntre-barreras. 
These “‘ Unicorns” proved really better bulls than at many of 
the formal corridas. Three young and rising matadors despatched 
the animals—two each. They were Galindo, Gavira, and Parrao— 
both the latter excellent. Gavira looked as if he might take first 
rank in his order, while Parrao displayed a coolness in the lidia 
such as we had seldom before seen—even to stroking the bull’s 
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