238 Unexplored Spain 
of life. A few minutes later, and a pair of ring-plovers (Aegialitis 
curonica) on the river accentuated the same pitiful contrast. 
Such small cultivation as exists in the Hurdes is carried on 
under supreme difficulty. The hills themselves are uncultivable, 
and the only opportunities that present themselves are either 
chance open spaces amidst interminable rock, or such rare and 
narrow strips of soil as can exist between precipitous slopes and 
the banks of the streams. Here little garden-patches, thirty or 
forty feet long by a dozen in width, are reclaimed ; but the very 
earth is liable to be swept away by winter-floods pouring down 
the mountain-sides, and has to be replaced by fresh soil carried 
—it may be long distances—on men’s shoulders. Here a few 
potatoes may be raised and in the broader valleys scant crops of 
WHITE WAGTAIL 
rye. The few fruit trees are neglected, and therefore give short 
yield, though what little is produced is of exquisite flavour, com- 
prising figs, cherries, a sort of peach (pavia), olives, and vines. 
All crops are subject to the ravages of wild-boars, which roam 
in bands of a dozen to a score, fearless of man and molested 
by none; while wolves take toll of the flocks. 
Red deer also wander freely and unpreserved over these 
ownerless hills—possibly the only place in Europe where such is 
the case. We inquired whether many were shot, but were told 
that such an event occurred rarely, though the Hurdano gunner 
might often approach within close range. ‘‘ We are not ensefados 
[instructed] in the arts of chase,” explained our informant. A few 
partridges and hares are found, with trout in the upper waters. 
Despite their degradation, the Hurdanos, we were assured, 
display no criminal taint such as is inherent among Gipsies. 
