THE TROUT. 131 



taken, but the season will yield several from that weight 

 ranging down to 6 lbs. 



And what a splendid fish is one of these " speckled 

 beauties !" I hold that a well-conditioned fish of this 

 class is one of the most beautiful objects in animated 

 nature. His symmetry and his colouring are unexcep- 

 tionable. He is more beautiful both in form and colour 

 than the most beautiful salmon that ever ran up fresh 

 from the sea, and when contemplated by his captor im- 

 mediately on being " banked" is a richer feast for the eyes 

 than the prettiest Salmo salar that Hampshire Avon, 

 Severn, Tay, Tyne, Thurso, or Shannon ever produced. 

 Salmo fario of the Thames v. Salmo salar all the world 

 over ; the latter charmingly symmetrical, and silvery as 

 you will, and beyond compare more beautiful than all sil- 

 very fishes; but the former resplendent with all the hues 

 of the rainbow, and others to boot ; yet not a mere gaudy 

 creature like the brilliant fish of the Mediterranean, but 

 with a harmony of bright colours, which subdue but do not 

 extinguish one another, and such as no artist could have 

 conceived and few can imitate. In addition, moreover, to 

 his beautiful symmetry and colouring, he gives one from 

 his build the very idea of a strong fish — Tennyson's 

 " lusty " trout — a very ideal of a fishy Apollo and Her- 

 cules combined. 



Gastronomically he is as good as outwardly he is beauti- 

 ful. He is pink as any salmon, and when cooked breaks 

 into flakes like a salmon, and wiuh as much "custard" 

 between them ; and your gourmet will tell you that he has 

 a more exquisitely " gamey" flavour than the best Christ- 

 church crimped salmon has ever yet developed. Many 

 recipes have been given for cooking him, some of which 



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