THE GUDGEON. 325 



philists indeed who aver that smelt are actually inferior to 

 their little idol. Certain it is that Thames gudgeon when 

 properly cooked are a most delectable dish, of which no 

 gourmet need be ashamed to own his appreciation. It 

 must be stipulated, however, that the dish be of Thames 

 gudgeon, or, failing that, of his near relative from the 

 Oolne. The Mersey, the Hampshire Avon, the Kennet, 

 and many other streams have their gudgeon in hundreds 

 of thousands, and most estimable fish too ; but when 

 singing the praises of Gyprinus gobio, I sing of the 

 Gobio of the Thames, which once more to repeat it, 

 produces better coarse fish in an edible point of view 

 than any other waters. It is really a great relief, 

 after abusing most fresh-water fish, to be able to 

 conscientiously speak of one in the highest terms of 

 commendation. 



I regret to hear, and indeed to have observed, or to 

 fancy I have observed, that there is a decrease in the 

 number of Thames gudgeon of late years. How to ac- 

 count for this decrease is a puzzle. The hundreds and 

 thousands of dozens taken in the course of a season 

 can hardly make a perceptible diminution in their 

 numbers ; and even if the number of anglers has in- 

 creased, and consequently more gudgeon are taken by 

 rod and line in a season than used to be the case, this is 

 counterbalanced by the fact that the professional fisher- 

 men do not now catch them in their casting-nets, for the 

 purpose of selling them to the proprietors of river-side 

 hotels and other persons. The number caught and used 

 for bait can hardly affect the supply. I would hope the 

 decrease, after all, is imaginary rather than real, and that 

 a kind of epidemic capriciousness as to taking the 



