ON FRUIT CULTURE. 1 01 9 



then gone into a state of collapse ; therefore, unless it is assured 

 that no improvement is necessary, it will prove more satisfactory to 

 do the work well in the first instance. 



When the trees arrive for planting, all wounded or jagged 

 roots should be cut back. When planting, the roots ought to be 

 spread out evenly and within a few inches of the surface, deep 

 planting being always avoided. No manure should be incorporated 

 with the soil ; but if this is heavy, a little lime-rubble or plaster 

 refuse may with advantage be mixed with it when planting, making 

 all thoroughly firm about the roots. Loose soil frequently induces 

 a sappy growth, which does not mature, and is followed by losses 

 of wood from frost, while fruit is afterwards conspicuous by its 

 absence. On the other hand, a firm root-run means solid wood, 

 well matured, and bristling with fruit-buds that usually set in 

 abundance. After planting, a mulch of strawy manure will conserve 

 moisture and assist the formation of new roots. The best time 

 to plant is the end of October, but in many cases this is impossible, 

 owing to conditions over which the grower has no control. If 

 the trees cannot be planted in the autumn, it is better to defer 

 the operation until February : mid-winter planting is seldom 

 advisable unless the weather is open and the soil in- a good, free- 

 working condition. 



A great mistake is often made in feeding the trees too early 

 with natural or chemical manures, provoking a rampant growth 

 and rendering root-pruning necessary to bring them into a fruitful 

 condition. No manure of any kind is necessary until they have 

 commenced to fruit, and even then weak applications are best, 

 strong doses doing more harm than good. 



The training of the Nectarine-tree, in its young stage particu- 

 larly, requires a certain amount of care, as unless a good 

 foundation is laid in the first instance, a poor and ill-shaped tree 

 is the result. The first and most important point is to form the 

 lower part of the tree by training the lower limbs, or branches, 

 and leaving the middle open ; the centre of the tree will always 

 fill up later. If undue vigour is shown by any of the branches 

 while growing, such should have their points removed once or 

 twice • during the summer ; this will act as a check on their 

 vigour, and also assist to keep the tree in balance, i.e., to retain 

 each side of it of similar size. In the spring many more shoots 

 will appear than it is possible or advisable to allow to remain, 

 rendering it necessary to disbud the trees. This system of dis- 

 budding should be done gradually; if the buds were removed all 

 at once a check would be given to the tree. All the worst- 

 placed buds should be rubbed off first, especially those that 

 face outwards, for if left these would make fore-right shoots that 

 would eventually have to be cut out. Gradually the other buds 

 or shoots should be removed, leaving only those necessary to 

 fill up blank spaces on the wall, or to increase the size of the 



