134 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST 



rents, and it became impossible to see more than 

 a few yards ahead. For an hour and a half every 

 sign of land was blotted out, although there were 

 islands on all sides ; in fact, the wind increased 

 to such a degree that when the weather finally 

 cleared our position was found to have remained 

 practically unchanged for over an hour, although 

 the ship had been kept at full speed. The sea had 

 risen so high that landing upon Cousin Island 

 became an impossibility, and we were forced to 

 return to Mahe. Several more days were spent 

 at anchor during incessant rain ; frequently 

 a squall would spring up without warning, 

 and several times the " Valhalla " dragged her 

 anchor. 



On one occasion we had a visit from King 

 Prempeh, who is kept in exile on Mahe. He came 

 on board in full native dress, though some per- 

 suasion was required before he would discard the 

 top hat and frock coat in which he usually appears. 

 Prempeh seems to be treated far better than he 

 deserves, for if all reports are true, he was one of 

 the most bloodthirsty tjrrants that ever existed ; 

 and I must say that his appearance does not belie 

 this, for a more repulsive-looking creature I never 

 saw. Of immense bulk, with small head and low 

 retreating forehead, he was not prepossessing as 

 he waddled about the deck. A phonograph 

 and pianola amused him exceedingly, and when 

 an iced drink was given to him he took the 



