184 HOUSING 



These notches will fit into the plate at the front and back 

 of the house. Place one rafter to see if it fits, and if it fits 

 perfectly use this as a pattern and cut three exactly like it. 

 Space them two feet from the center, and have the outer 

 one flush with the ends of the plates. Spike them securely 

 with twenty-penny spikes (Fig. 101). 



Exercise No. 44. — Erecting the Studding. — Make the 

 right stud for the door of two by four hemlock, and set it 

 up on one side, two feet from the corner post. It should 

 be perpendicular to the runner, and parallel with the corner 

 posts. Erect intermediate timbers, three feet from the floor, 

 between all posts and the outer studding. Do not put any 



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10- 



Fig. 101. — Detail drawing giving dimensions of roof rafter. 



intermediate sticks across the space left for the door. Cut all 

 intermediates a little long so that they will fit between the 

 posts, and be flush with the outer edge. Nail them securely. 

 Next fit the intermediates at the top and bottom of the cur- 

 tain opening. 



Exercise No. 45. — Erecting the Walls. — Select from the 

 pile of lumber the one by six inch tongued and grooved 

 pine lumber, and with this cover the back, the side, and the 

 front walls. Leave openings for the door, curtain, and 

 windows as specified. Before nailing them, saw the top of 

 the boards so they will be flush with the top of the rafters. 

 Be sure to keep them perpendicular. Drive them together 

 securely, nailing each board as soon as fitted, driving two 

 nails in each board where it crosses a rafter or stud. Keep 

 the corners square and plumb. On the side walls make the 

 boards conform to the slope of the roof (Fig. 102). 



