ON THE COOKING OF PISH. 277 



strongest of gelatine. Isinglass, which produces even 

 a stronger jelly and more nourishment than gelatine, 

 is but a preparation of the sound of the sturgeon and 

 other fish ; and isinglass is given, much as cod-liver 

 oil is, not only as a nourishing, but as a strengthening 

 food. 



We do not throw away any portion of beef and 

 mutton because it is coarse, tough, and flavourless; 

 it is too expensive for that. We call it gravy or stock- 

 meat, and we extract its juices by boiling; and why 

 should we condemn any fish, when the coarsest and 

 most flavourless of them can be turned to the best 

 account also, by being used in a similar manner ? A 

 little pepper, a little salt, some vinegar, and a sprig 

 of herbs, is all that is required to turn barbel and 

 chub into very good and enjoyable soup — not that 

 barbel or chub are by any means inedible of them- 

 selves, as I have often experienced ; for, well cleaned, 

 with the backbone cut out, with pepper, salt, butter, 

 a slice of lemon, or a few drops of vinegar, they are 

 very palatable if they are properly grilled. These 

 fish, and many others, are constantly and chiefly 

 used by the Jews, who are infinitely better cooks 

 than we are, but from whom we nevertheless make 

 no attempt to learn the art of cooking the fresh- 

 water fish which are so excellent on their tables. 



