226 MILK FOE CHEESE. 



some extent to the butter which it contains, depends 

 in a higher degree upon a gradual transformation 

 Avhich the caseine or curd undergoes in ripening. 



Such being the process, it is quite evident that an 

 even distribution of the fatty matter through the curd, 

 is desirable, in order that each particle of ammonia, 

 as set free, may at the moment be in contact with 

 the fatty acid which is supplied from the fat globule. 

 Consequently that milk which contains the' cream in 

 a state of equilibrium throughout the fluid, and yet 

 which is rich by analysis, fulfils best the desired 

 conditions. 



That the facts of dairying are in accordance with 

 these views, witness a few statements. Dr. Voelcker 

 writes that one of the chief tests of the skill of the 

 dairy-maid, is the production of a rich tasting and 

 looking, fine-flavored, mellow cheese from milk not 

 particularly rich in cream. That this can be done is 

 abundantly pi'oved by the practice of good makers. 

 In the accounts of cheese-making that come to us 

 through the Transactions of the Cheese-Makers' As- 

 sociations, we find both concordant and conflicting 

 testimony, which can only be rendered concordant 

 by the supposition that the parties reporting, of equal 

 repute, used milk of diff"erent characters. Thus some 

 makers advocate taking the cream of one milking for 

 the puqjose of butter-making, and deny any injurious 

 influence therefrom on the cheese, while others dep- 

 recate this course. Many others think the cream 

 may be profitably removed in the fall, but not at 

 other times. When we consider that the cows which 



