HATCHING AND BROODING WITH MOTHER HEN 35 



depends very largely on the comfort of the sitter. If 

 she is ailing, or harbors vermin, or even if her nest is not 

 properly built, she will be so uneasy as to imperil the 

 hatch. Even if she is thin in flesh, she is not so likely 

 to give a good hatch as is the fat hen. Breeds, varieties, 

 and individuals differ in this matter, but the average hen 

 in good condition, with a well-made nest, and no disturb- 

 ing conditions, has a good chance to bring a good hatch 

 from good eggs. Those varieties which have Asiatic 

 blood, or this blood combined with Mediterranean 

 (a common combination), may be uncertain in their 

 individual tendencies. Some will be good sitters and 

 mothers, some poor ; the more purely of Asiatic blood, 

 the Aiore uncertain, clumsy, and generally irritating they 

 may be. Such hens may take "the sitting fever" so 

 hard that they will not eat for the first week; some 

 never eat properly while sitting. This is one chief 

 reason why a sitter should be in good condition when 

 her task begins. Else, she will become but skin and 

 bone in the course of the month which is near the real 

 sitting period; even though hens' eggs need but 21 

 days' incubation, the days consumed in moving and 

 settling the hen, and the two or possibly three days 

 before it is wise to attempt to remove her with her 

 chicks will nearly make the month. 



Practically all the large and the intermediate breeds 

 have more or less of Asiatic blood. Many of those 

 which do not are non-sitters. The White Wyandotte 

 is the best sitter and mother with which I am famihar. 

 These are a little more easily moved than others, al- 

 though hens of most breeds can be handled almost at 

 will, if one know how. 



