834 



PBAGTICAL GUIDE TO GARDEN PLANTS hyacinthus 



deep they are not so much influenced by- 

 changes in temperature, too many off- 

 sets are not produced, and finer trusses of 

 blossom are obtained. The latter last for 

 several weeks, and only where the scapes 

 are particularly heavy and likely to be 

 injured by wind should they be supported 

 by means of a stiff but slender stake. 



Hyacinths are more effective if kept 

 massed according to colour and variety 

 instead of being mixed up in a higgledy 

 piggledy way, weak and strong, short and 

 taU, in a confused mass. 



About the end of June when the leaves 

 are turning yellow, or better stiU in July 

 when they have withered, the bulbs may 

 be taken up carefully. All the offsets 

 may be removed and stored in dry sand 

 or soil tiU the autumn, when they may be 

 replanted in beds by themselves, and in 

 two or three years will have reached the 

 flowering stage. Previous to taking the 

 bulbs up, they wiU be considerably 

 strengthened, or rather they will not be 

 so much exhausted, if the flower- stems 

 are cut off as soon as possible after the 

 flowers have begun to wither. Where it 

 is desirable to save seeds, the flowers must 

 of course be allowed to remain, but as it 

 takes 4-6 years to obtain flowering bulbs 

 from seeds, this method of increase is only 

 likely to be adopted by the Dutch growers 

 who are anxious to obtain new varieties. 

 Besides the offsets from the sides of the 

 bulbs, others may be induced to develop 

 from the fuU-grown bulbs, by making one 

 or two cross cuts in them about half way 

 up from the base. When planted these cut 

 bulbs do not leaf and flower very well, as 

 most of the growing force is used up in 

 forming young bulbs in the soil from the 

 cut surfaces. These are detached in the 

 same way as the other offsets in due 

 course, and receive similar treatment. 



Although Hyacinth bulbs are usually 

 taken up every year, stiU it is not essential 

 to do so. Where they will not be injured 

 by subsequent ctiltivation, they may be 

 left in the soil for 3 or 4 years without 

 being disturbed, in which case they should 

 receive a good top dressing of manure 

 every winter. 



It is very easy to be deceived in buy- 

 ing Hyacinth bulbs. Many that look and 

 feel pretty firm 'and healthy are more or 

 less touched with disease in the centre — 

 the vital spot from which the flower spike 

 is to come. Strong healthy bulbs should 

 have a good broad ' plate ' at the base. 



and as a rule those having a broad flattish 

 top, and feeling heavy in the hand, are 

 most likely to give the best flowers. 

 According to variety, some bulbs are 

 naturally large and some small, so that 

 size is not of so much importance as firm- 

 ness, weight, and the point referred to 

 above. A good Hyacinth should have 

 leaves in proportion to the vigour and size 

 of the flower stems, from which they 

 should stand out obhquely erect. The 

 flower stem should be round, strong, and 

 straight, quite free from the foliage, and 

 should have the lowest flowers of the truss 

 borne just above the top of the leaves. 

 The truss should be round and cylindrical 

 in shape, or slightly tapering from the 

 base upwards, and well and regularly 

 furnished with as many flowers as possi- 

 ble, each one standing out horizontally 

 from the stem, giving each other mutual 

 support, and allowing no intervening 

 spaces. 



For cutting purposes Hyacinths are 

 very valuable and last a long time fresh 

 in water. They are thus useful for decora- 

 tions, and are universal favourites on 

 account of their pleasing shades of colour, 

 and the sweet and penetrating perfume 

 which they emit. 



Hyacinths in glasses. — This is such 

 an easy, pleasant, and popular method of 

 growing Hyacinths that it cannot very 

 well be overlooked in this work. Orna- 

 mental glasses of various designs are used 

 for the purpose. They are narrowed 

 near the top in such a way that a rim is 

 left for the bulb to rest upon, and not 

 come in direct contact with the water. 

 They are filled almost up to this rim with 

 rain or ordinary water, into which a few 

 pieces of charcoal may be put to keep it 

 sweet. The bulbs may then be placed 

 over the water on the rim, and should be 

 kept in a cool dark place until roots are 

 developed from the ' plate ' at the base. 

 If the temperature is too high, the bulbs 

 will start into growth before roots are 

 formed, and in a short time the new 

 leaves will have exhausted all the stored 

 up nourishment in the bulbs, and few 

 or no flowers at all are likely to be pro- 

 duced. The first essential, therefore, in 

 this treatment is to get the roots to form 

 before growth on top begins. The plants 

 may then be exposed to the light, and 

 given a little fresh water occasionally. 

 They wUl grow well in a window, and in 

 due course produce fine trusses of flowers. 



