1030 



PBACTICAL GUIDE TO GARDEN PLANTS 



face where they -will benefit by the rain 

 and mulchings of manure. If too deep 

 they loose these advantages. 



Liming; the Soil. — A great aid to most 

 heavy soils is the addition of lime in a 

 slaked condition. Lime is not only a 

 great fertilising agent, but is also a great 

 cleanser, as it plays havoc with the 

 numerous pests whichinf est all badly tilled 

 soils and prey upon their crops. Accord- 

 ing to the heaviness, stodginess, or sticki- 

 ness of the soil, from 10 to 20 cwts. per acre 

 of slaked lime in a powdered form may be 

 strewn over the surface as evenly as possi- 

 ble. During the winter is the best period 

 for this operation in order to bring the soil 

 into a friable condition by spring, and also 

 because at this period the various insect 

 pests taking refuge in it are likely to be 

 killed. The roots are also in a dormant 

 condition and not so hable to be injured 

 as when in a growing state. 



Liming should not be overdone. A 

 soil already well charged requires a 

 dressing only at long intervals. It is a 

 fairly easy process to test whether a soil 

 contains lime or not. A fair sample 

 taken from various parts of the garden 

 placed in a glass or bowl may have a little 

 muriatic or sulphuric acid or vinegar 

 poured over it. If the liquid bubbles and 

 fizzes, it is a sign that lime or chalk is 

 present ; the more vigorous the bubbling 

 the more limy substance present. The 

 absence of the fizzing and bubbling 

 indicates want of lime. 



Another simple test for hme is to place 

 portions of the soil into a bowl in distUled 

 or at least well-boiled water. Thoroughly 

 mix, and allow the soil to settle at the 

 bottom. By blowing the breath into the 

 water with a reed or a pipe the water wUl 

 be turned to a milky whiteness if lime be 

 present, but it will remain more or less 

 clear if absent. 



A good way to apply lime is to place 

 it in an unslaked condition in little heaps 

 at regular intervals from each other, 

 covering each heap with soil, and leaving 

 it to slake. When reduced to a fine 

 powdery condition by this process it may 

 be forked over the surface evenly and dug 

 or hoed in. 



Manure. — Annual dressings or mulch- 

 ings of stable manure are very beneficial 

 to fruit crops, if applied after the fi-uits 

 are well set or later on in June, Jiily, and 

 August, during the hot weather. The 

 roots absorb the manurial matters washed 



into the soil by the rain, the fruits swell, 

 and come to greater perfection sooner, 

 and the formation of fruit buds for the 

 following season is stimulated. Manurial 

 top-dressings also encourage the roots to 

 keep near the upper surface of the soU, 

 and in this way are an antidote to the 

 downward development of roots into the 

 less fertile portions of the earth. 



About October to December the land 

 for fruit crops will be benefited by the 

 application of Basic Slag and Kainit at 

 the rate of 5 or 6 ounces to the square 

 yard, dug or hoed in. Basic Slag is in- 

 soluble in water, but undergoes a change 

 in the soil during the winter and yields 

 up a soluble phosphatic food to the roots 

 in spring, with the result that; the fruits 

 are ultimately large, well-shaped, and 

 excellent in flavour. Kainit is a potash 

 manure, and must be appUed in winter, 

 so as to be available for feeding the roots 

 in spring. In the latter season, about 

 February or March, one or two ounces to 

 the square yard of sulphate of ammonia 

 or superphosphate may be applied either 

 separately or mixed. Nitrate of soda may 

 be apphed also at this season, but its 

 action is soon«r over than that of sulphate 

 of ammonia. Where very quick results 

 are required, however, nitrate of soda is 

 probably preferable, provided too much 

 is not given at a time. AU artificial 

 manures are best given in small quanti- 

 ties, as if overdone the foliage is apt to 

 suffer considerably. An excellent all- 

 round manure for fruit trees is bone-meal. 

 According to the richness or poverty of 

 the soU, from 4 to 8 cwts. per acre or 1-2 

 lbs. to every 10 sq. yds. may be apphed 

 and lightly forked in during the winter 

 months. The action of bone-meal lasts 

 for about a couple of years, and produces 

 fine fruit. 



Decayed leaves, road sweepings, wood 

 ashes, soot, and almost all organic waste 

 material may be applied to fruit land with 

 benefit instead of tlirowing it away. The 

 mowings from lawns, the refuse from 

 chioken-runs, rabbit hutches, and excreta 

 from all kinds of animals if mixed together 

 and well incorporated with soU make an 

 excellent manure for fi:uit trees. Such 

 collections take some time to bring into 

 a proper condition and should never be 

 used in a fresh unfermented state. It is 

 better to have a part of the garden set 

 apart for refuse of this kind so that the 

 heap can be turned over from time to 



