1034 



PBAGTICAL GUIDE TO OABDEN PLANTS 



development of a few strong branches that 

 are likely to fruit, rather than allow it to 

 bear a multitude of weak ones which 

 would in all probability produce nothing. 

 The branches of weak trees may be cut 

 back to two or three buds, while those on 

 strong trees may be allewed to carry 

 three or four times as many, according to 

 the vigour of the variety. 



When to prune. — The pruning of 

 established fruit trees is practised during 

 the summer and winter months. Summer 

 pruning is an important operation, and if 

 properly pei-formed is of great service in 

 the production of fruit. If practised with 

 too much severity, however, it often 

 results in the development of plenty of 

 leafy branches, but little or no fruit. 

 Some growers pinch out the points of the 

 side shoots back to three or four leaves 

 about the end of May or June. The 

 branches from these are again pinched 

 back later on to two leaves, and in the 

 event of mild wet autumns a third pinch- 

 ing may be necessary. This plan answers 

 well in the case of young vigorous trees. 

 Older trees are weakened too much if 

 pruned so early in the season ; they must 

 be allowed to make unrestricted growth 

 until the first week in August, when all 

 shoots not required for extending the size 

 of the tree should be cut back to 4 or. 5 

 fully developed leaves. The result of this 

 treatment is the development of thin 

 weak side shoots which are disposed to 

 form fruit ' spurs,' while the main shoots, 

 having had an extra amount of sap, have 

 become sturdy and strong. Other growers 

 prefer to break the side shoots half way 

 through about the end of June back to 

 three or four leaves from the base, allow- 

 ing the broken tops to hang loosely. 

 They look rather untidy, but not being 

 quite severed they still absorb a certain 

 amount of sap, and thus prevent the lower 

 buds on the shoots from springing into 

 growth. This treatment usually produces 

 flower-buds on the shoots, and in the case 

 of all trained trees, like espaliers, cordons, 

 and pyramids, may be practised with 

 great advantage. In the autumn or 

 winter, when again pruning, the hanging 

 shoots may be removed with a sharp 

 knife and a clean cut, leaving 3 buds on 

 the remaining side shoots. 



About October or November, or later 

 according to circumstances, when the 

 leaves have fallen and the sap is in an 

 almost quiescent condition, the leading 



shoots of standard pyramid or bush trees 

 may be shortened back to within 6-9 

 inches or more of their season's growth. 

 It is a comparatively easy matter to trace 

 the amount of groWth made each year by 

 fruit trees. The current year's growth is 

 readily distinguished from the growth of 

 the preceding year, and so backwards 

 dovra the branch, sometimes for four, five, 

 or six years. 



If the summer pruning has been 

 properly performed Httle remains to be 

 done in winter beyond cutting away 

 weak or useless branches that would be 

 likely to overcrowd the tree the following 

 spring, and prevent free access of light 

 and air. All dead wood, of course, should 

 be removed, and whatever form the tree 

 takes should alwaj'S be borne in mind, 

 so that the branches may be disposed 

 accordingly. 



When dealing with stone-finiit trees, 

 like Peaches, Nectarines, and MoreUo 

 Cherries, pinching out or breaking the 

 shoots in summer is preferable to the firee 

 use of the knife in winter. Even Plums 

 and Apricots are all the better for summer 

 pinching and breaking, and are not so 

 liable to be troubled with 'gumming.' 

 Apples, Pears, Plums, Apricots, and the 

 Sweet Cherries all bear their fruit more 

 or less on spurs, but Peaches, Nectarines, 

 and MoreUo Cherries bear it best upon 

 the long slender growths of the preceding 

 year. "When pruning the latter fruit 

 trees in vranter, therefore, these shoots 

 should be allowed to remain, only thui- 

 ning out those that are superfluous. 



Disbudding. — This is practically a 

 form of pruning, and may be done early 

 in the season of growth. It consists in 

 rubbing out young shoots that are not 

 wanted, and thus directing the sap to 

 those that are. It is chiefly employed for 

 Peaches and Nectarines. 



Special details in regard to pruning 

 will be found under the different fruits 

 described. 



Nailing Fruit Trees on Walls. — In 

 every garden where fruit trees are grown 

 on walls a good deal of attention is neces- 

 sary every year in regard to tying up the 

 branches at the same time as pruning 

 takes place. The two operations — prun- 

 ing and nailing-up- — are as a rule best 

 done at the same time. Where trees are 

 grown on walls facing east, west, and 

 north, as well as south, some little con- 

 sideration should be given to the effects 



